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Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 10:04:54 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
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References: <20140707.123153.23572.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
Thread-index: Ac+aAStaHrxn5C8bQweB5+iwNWWjuQAA7r2g
Thanks Bob. I am in the 1 qt/400 mile range. Haven't looked for a leak,
however the concrete shows a small oil drip, it's not coming from seals or
pan. I don't think it is the rings or cylinder either. I started with
valvoline 50 which is what the rebuilder used, but have recently been using
Castrol 15/30.

 

On the LR, apparently he bored the cylinders slightly over to account for
the sideward inline movement.

 

Clayton

 

From: mgbob@juno.com [mailto:mgbob@juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 9:32 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another oil question? really?

 

  MG was more tolerant of oil consumption than we are today. "Sipping" could
mean 400 miles to a quart, once upon a time.

   Have you determined that the oil is passing the rings, or coming down
past the valve stems, or not dripping from seals or pan or other
connections?  I am sceptical that on this newly rebuilt  engine that it's
rings or cylinder problems.

  My MGB has almost a thousand miles since its spring time oil change, when
Brad Penn 20-50 (the high ZDDP stuff) was put in, and there has been only
the slightest drop on the   dipstick. I am suspicious of troubles, as it
does not seem to be burning enough.

   How did the LR guy bore cylinders other than round?

Bob

 


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] another oil question? really?
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 09:20:34 -0700

Yes! Ok, I've had my 62 mga engine rebuilt 3 times by "experts". The current
iteration seems solid - put a couple thousand miles on her. But she sips oil
modestly. The guy who did the machine shop work for my 59 Land Rover told me
that most machine shops and rebuilders machine the cylinder walls wrong.
They make the cylinders round instead of slightly oval toward the bottom of
the stroke which considers the pull and push rotation of the driveshaft and
connector arm. Seems reasonable to me.



So the question. Should I increase the viscosity of the oil to allow less
oil burn, and/or, go to synthetic which won't burn off?



Also by now, I'm figuring she has finished running in and plan to change
oil/filter.





"We live in the greatest nation in the history of the world," he pleaded. "I
hope you'll join with me as we try to change it." Barrie Obama
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