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The fact that one has been intermittent for a while and the other only =
happened recently implies they are not the same fault.
The voltage stabiliser only supplies power to the fuel and electric temp =
gauges, not the tach. The confusion with the tach is that the green =
supply to the tach is often daisy chained off the 12v terminal feeding =
the voltage stabiliser. If all three were failing to register then it =
could be the green supply to the voltage stabiliser (and hence the tach) =
that had failed, other than that they are separate problems.
Because the fuel and electric temp gauges are fed from the voltage =
stabiliser if the stabiliser fails in that it continually supplies =
system voltage to those gauges then they will read high, and will vary =
as system voltage goes up and down. The simple test for that is to =
switch on the ignition but don't start the engine, and note the fuel =
gauge reading once it has stabilised tapping the gauge with a knuckle =
occasionally. Then start the engine and get it charging, and if the =
fuel gauge goes up then the stabiliser is faulty.
If the temp gauge started heading for H as soon as you switched on the =
ignition then the blue/green wire to the sender is shorting out. But if =
it only starts rising once the engine is running it's more like =
something causing excess heat, perhaps low coolant causing boiling, =
other than that the sender may have failed in an unusual way.
If the tach stops working but the engine continues to run then it could =
be a wiring problem or an internal fault. For the former either loss of =
the 12v or earth supplies to the case, or if anything has changed with =
the ignition coil wiring the power to the coil could be bypassing the =
trigger circuit in the tach.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
#1 =E2=80=93 tachometer =E2=80=93 after working sporadically, the tach =
in my =E2=80=9971 B/GT has finally quit completely.
#2 =E2=80=93 temperature gauge =E2=80=93 until we started it up this =
spring, the gauge has never been above =E2=80=9CN=E2=80=9D (except for =
one long uphill crawl with a loose fan belt). Now, after only a few =
minutes at idle, it went rapidly to =E2=80=9CH=E2=80=9D.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The fact that one has been intermittent for a while =
and the=20
other only happened recently implies they are not the same =
fault.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The voltage stabiliser only supplies power to the =
fuel and=20
electric temp gauges, not the tach. The confusion with the tach is =
that=20
the green supply to the tach is often daisy chained off the 12v terminal =
feeding=20
the voltage stabiliser. If all three were failing to register then =
it=20
could be the green supply to the voltage stabiliser (and hence the =
tach)=20
that had failed, other than that they are separate =
problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Because the fuel and electric temp gauges are fed =
from the=20
voltage stabiliser if the stabiliser fails in that it continually =
supplies=20
system voltage to those gauges then they will read high, and will vary =
as system=20
voltage goes up and down. The simple test for that is to switch on =
the=20
ignition but don't start the engine, and note the fuel gauge reading =
once it has=20
stabilised tapping the gauge with a knuckle occasionally. Then =
start the=20
engine and get it charging, and if the fuel gauge goes up then the =
stabiliser is=20
faulty.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the temp gauge started heading for H as soon as =
you=20
switched on the ignition then the blue/green wire to the sender is =
shorting=20
out. But if it only starts rising once the engine is running it's =
more=20
like something causing excess heat, perhaps low coolant causing boiling, =
other=20
than that the sender may have failed in an unusual way.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the tach stops working but the engine continues =
to run then=20
it could be a wiring problem or an internal fault. For the former =
either=20
loss of the 12v or earth supplies to the case, or if anything has =
changed with=20
the ignition coil wiring the power to the coil could be bypassing the =
trigger=20
circuit in the tach.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>#1 =E2=80=93 tachometer =E2=80=93 after working =
sporadically, the tach in=20
my =E2=80=9971 B/GT has finally quit completely.</P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>#2 =E2=80=93 temperature gauge =E2=80=93 until we =
started it up this=20
spring, the gauge has never been above =E2=80=9CN=E2=80=9D (except for =
one long uphill crawl=20
with a loose fan belt). Now, after only a few minutes at idle, =
it went=20
rapidly to =E2=80=9CH=E2=80=9D.</P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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