At 07:26 AM 7/4/96 -0500, BOB NOGUEIRA wrote:
Bob,
It sounds as though you are really having fun. In fact you inspired me
to get under my Morgan. (Well, not really, were trying
to get ready for a National AACA meet here the 6th of Sept.)
I had to rebuild the starter solenoid and pull the rear deck that hold the
battery behind the seats. Something has leaked and pealed
the paint off the wood and some of the metal framing. Unlike Tx.
Va. Beach, Va. was great today. About 82 for the high, a gentle breeze and
low humidity (a rarity).
While I'm talking about starters, guys there are 2 types of starters that
can be used on the Morgan. The first one is what
they call an inertial starter. The solenoid is the silver bullet
like affair on the fire wall with the cable going down to the starter.
When the solenoid applys power to the starter, the inerta (no movement) of
the bendix causes it to slide out and engage to the fly
wheel. These work well, but have 2 problems:
1. They have a tendency to chew up the fly wheel by not engaging
cleanly.
2. If the groves in the starter shaft get dirty, it can keep the
bendix from sliding out and engaging the flywheel. The
starter will spin like crazy but the engine will not start.
The fix is to drop the starter and clean down the groves with
varsol or some other solvent.
The other type starter is called a pre-engagement starter. This on
has the solenoid attached to the starter. When it fires, there is
a leaver that pushes the bendix into position then lets the starter
spin up.
Hopefully, in the near future I'll write an article about rebuilding
this solenoid and wiring it into the car and draw up some drawings.
Bob,
Fred Sessons has a neat idea in his book about making shims for adjusting
the doors. One thing I did was to drill at least the top
holes through the "A" pillar and use a long screw and a nut to
hold the hing in place.
On your problem with the rear deck:
>My plan for a fix to this problem is to paint the back panel without
>the half round then install the half round and paint it . This should
>prevent water penetrating to the metal,
Here are 2 suggestions of what I did on my car:
1. When I layed the rear deck back in place, I put a bead of
silicon calk over the seam between the rear deck and the
little spears that go over the fender arches. (Note: you
might want to use seam sealer or something else as the silicon
calk is not paintable.
2. When I replaced the 1/2 round Al. strips, I pollished them and
put then on with stainless steel phillips head wood screws.
This way, you don't have to worry about the paint cracking
as the body flexes and having that crack open up, and the puddy
that you put over the screw head cracking out. It really looks
great! Don't know why Morgan didn't do it that way in the 1st
place.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
The one with the most toys, wins!
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