I am sure the '68 will bolt in.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCH (OldSub)" <Steve@oldsub.com>
To: "'Gary Gittleson'" <overtime@warwick.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:45 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Engine swap
> The original motor is front mounted and bolts to a bellhousing that bolts
to
> a crossmember. The 350 will not bolt to your bellhousing, and far as I
> know, there is no bellhousing that will bolt to your crossmember and a
350.
>
> If you use a '54-'55 1st crossmember you can use a '63 to '67 or so
> bellhousing to address that problem. I don't know if 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton
> crossmembers are the same or not. I do know that 1-1/2 ton and larger
> trucks have a different crossmember.
>
> Taking that approach you can retain your original rear motor mount
location
> (the bellhousing) but will need the front crossmember. You are also going
> to have trouble with the exhaust and steering wanting to occupy the same
> space. '56 Chevy exhaust manifolds, and 305 Chevy exhaust manifolds are
> said to resolve that problem, but I've never seen one or tried it myself.
>
> I have seen trucks where the steering box was moved out from the frame far
> enough to create clearance. Doing so also creates potential problems.
>
> A 3/4-ton is different than a 1/2-ton is that there is a short driveshaft
> between a torque tube and the rear axle. You can change the rear gears by
> swapping the differential from a later Chevy/GMC pickup up through about
> '72.
>
> If you were not pulling a trailer I'd say your original radiator if in
good
> condition should be fine. Pulling a trailer I'm not as confident.
>
> Those are my quick thoughts about regarding how to approach this. Not
> everyone is going to feel this is a good idea, so don't be surprised if
some
> object.
>
> I've not done this kind of swap, but only relate what I've learned from
> others. The devil will be in the details!
>
> Try the forum at www.StoveBolt.com for more info.
>
>
> Steve@OldSub.com
> www.OldSub.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Gittleson [mailto:overtime@warwick.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 2:30 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] Engine swap
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am new to this group so please bear with me.
>
> I recently bought a "52 3/4 ton" which really turns out to be most likely
a
> '50 3/4 ton. It's ok. I like the truck.
>
> Anyhow, my plan is to swap in a 350 and use it as a real truck. It would
get
> 2
> or 3000 miles per year but some of it would be pulling a 2-horse trailer.
> Feel
> free to tell me I'm crazy.
>
> I want to change as little as possible, with nothing noticeable without
> opening the hood. No lowered front end. No car front end. No automatic. No
> tilt. No fancy dash. I will change to 12 volt and convert to electric
> wipers.
> Maybe it will need a beefed-up radiator. I suppose I will have to change
the
> rear end ratio. Carter's has a 4.10 for the 3/4 ton. I would need the
front
> motor mount, which I would get from Chevy Duty. They said I would need the
> rear as well but I don't see why, since I'm not going to automatic (no
> way!).
> It all seems almost too easy. I read that I can use the same starter,
> flywheel, clutch etc. I know, the starter is 6 volt but I don't think that
> will matter. It just makes them spin faster. I have another 52 with 235,
12
> volt and a 6 volt starter. Same in my Ford 9N tractor. No problem.
>
> Do any of you have thoughts (besides "we shoot anyone who modifies Chevy
> trucks.") or suggestions? Am I missing something important? Is there a
> website
> that might help?
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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