Since I am a Kingsborne wire dealer in real life, I thought I'd pick up a
set of later Shadow wires and modify them for the early car. To me, they
were cheap enough to have good, relatively pre-cut wires.
Turns out this is not a bad idea. They are solid core with Beru
(thread-catcher) ends at the plug side, and, of course, regular cap fit
wires on the other end. There's really no other good options for 66-68 or
so wires short of making some riceboy blue Accel 8mm wires from scratch or
something for a massive American car which would still need to be cut down.
I called one of my old NJ sources for RR bits - Richie at SC Works in
Newark - and got the missing wire loom bits for the early car since I only
had the B bank back-of-the-head boot and long clamp bracket still on the
car. Albers coughed up 8 new cap screw in nuts and wire end washers when I
bought my new cap and rotor (Crewe Genuine Parts = nameless manufacture
from Eastern Europe at RR prices - I am not amused)
I pulled the cap ends off the wires by hand and fed them through the looms
bare ended. Kingsborne is good enough to label 2 sets of 1 through 4, so a
few Radio Shack wire marker stickers came in handy adding B to the B bank
wire labels. Only one wire - B1 - had to be trimmed down some and was still
a little slack but that's better than B3 and B4, which are pretty tight. I
suppose if I wasn't a slave to the wire loom they would be much slacker.
One of those newfangled Cold Heat battery operated soldering irons was up
at Radio Shack too for $20, so that made life a little easier soldering the
brass washers on the wires. Take your time and try not to set the engine
bay on fire with falling solder and you will be fine. These take a little
getting used to since they only turn on when they have continuity between
the forked blades of the tip.
The downside to the best wire ends in the business is that you can no
longer use Champion Plugs - Federal Mogul has cheaped out to the point that
the stud terminals are no longer removable, they are now a 1 piece stud
going into the ceramic. Sadly, NGK has done this too on all the plugs I had
here. I settled on a set of Bosch Platinums (not my favourite) gapped at
.032 accomodating the new Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower 40kV coil. I
may try to find some hot Berus since the hottest Bosch I could find was a
WR9DP - equivalent to an N12Y Champion. Good thing she's not an oil burner.
My choke is still hanging up full on initial start, but after a minute of
stuttering I can shut it off and restart, resulting in clean plugs and a
high idle! Hurrah! Yeah, suggestions welcome.
Off to the hardware store to scare up some new 8 x .5" sheetmetal screws
for the inner fender liner. The antenna is back in and working as it
should. It will be nice to get my freshly powdercoated front plate bracket
back as well as my hubcap rings so I don't look like the Shadow rally car.
This coming week's spare time will be dedicated to some interior and
exterior detailing since the car is running and sort of driving again.
Chip
66 SS SRX1248
It's not just rust free, but now needing just a little less TLC
_________________________________
Cheers-
William "Chip" Lamb
West of Sweden SAAB
Richmond, VA.
http://www.wmsbrg.com/sweden/
__________________________________
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