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Re: Shop Lighting and Leaks

To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Shop Lighting and Leaks
From: Joe Flake <flake@a3115jmf.atl.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 10:14:25 EST
Tom said:
> 
> I have a basement shop that is pretty much ideal temperature wise. It's
> surrounded by earth on 3 sides and stays around 50 to 60 degrees year
> round. A question about painting the walls white. My walls are block.
> What's a good paint to use that will cover well and be priced reasonably
> and what's the best application method? Spray or roller? I have a
> compressor.

I have the same situation.  I've played "round tuit" for basement
finishing for most of the almost 6 years we've been in the house.
One area destined to be a home office, another destined to be
a shop (mostly woodwork, but smaller car things get pulled into
this area as well).  (Both are in use, but in ugly unfinished mode.)

I think the best choice for doing block walls in a basement is to
use one of the waterproofing paints.  Even if you don't have a
water problem, it's both an insurance layer and also a paint designed
to stick to concrete.

I've seen two brands locally at Home Depot -- there are probably others.
1)  DamTight.  Historically a powder paint/cement mixture which you
    mix with water before applying.  I think they may also have a
    ready-to-apply version as well now.
2)  UGL.  This is a latex, ready-to-apply paint.  Obviously an easier
    to use product, but perhaps not the ideal solution of the
    paint/cement mix from DamTight.

I think a stiff brush is the preferred method to apply either
product when going onto blocks.

My plan is to do the entire basement walls with one or the other
of these products.  For the office area, I may then do studs and
sheetrock for looks, but the shop will likely stop at the painted
stage.

One issue I'm not comfortable with is that the waterproofing paints
want you do do an acid etch as a prep for the paint.  The instructions
imply that you just spray it on, let it etch, then hose it off.  Great
except that this is an interior wall, without a floor drain to simply
flow things into.  Any thoughts on how to handle this process?

Joe Flake
Norcross, GA (near Atlanta)
flake@a3115jmf.atl.hp.com

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