Randall Young wrote:
>
> Almost all the solderless connectors I've ever seen were tinned copper or
> copper alloy (which are visually much like aluminum). The tinning is
> because pure copper makes a lousy connector, it oxidizes almost instantly
> in air, and copper oxide is not a good conductor.
>
> IMO it's impossible to get a long lasting joint at home, using solderless
> connectors. To get a good joint, you need a crimping tool that is
> calibrated to the connector and wire. The cheap 'scissors' tool in the
> kits just don't cut it. Solder is the way to go. Regardless of connector,
> the joint needs to be protected from moisture.
We have found, in some instances, that soldered joints will fail under
high-vibration conditions. If the joint is protected from vibration, I
think a soldered joint is very much an advantage.
For more or less reliable connectors and terminals, contact either
Packard (now, I think, Delphi Automotive) or Deutsch. Deutsch requires a
fairly expensive crimping tool, but both brands supply a variety of
well-sealed connector bodies and terminals.
For those willing to wait a bit, I will probably have, as time permits,
an article on the VTR site on alternate connectors and terminals, and
the means to assemble them, but need a bit more time to establish metric
to AWG wire size conversions, and a source or two for metric wire and
terminals (both of the above are now only available in metric sizes, but
the interchange between metric and AWG is not complicated).
Cheers.
|