I'd like to throw in my 2 cents.
I'd would look for a local landscaper selling his business. This guys are
constantly starting and shut down businesses around here. You can get a
commercial grade equipment for about the same as a new tractor.
I picked up a Hustler 275. I got the 6' deck, 6' snowblower, 6' plow, ROPS
cage, and a special "roll out" trailer designed for it.
The mower is KILLER! Dual hydrostatic drive, front pto, 24hp (cast iron
Kolher)
FWIW, I do have a problem with hills on it. I was thinking of putting on
bigger tires, but I don't have clearance for them.
Does anyone know what tire is the best for traction? (I don't care if it
rips up the lawn a little)
I'm pretty sure it has "agriculture" tires on it now. Any advice? Should
I try "turf" tires?
Inch
"Nolan Penney"
<npenney@mde.state.m To:
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>,
d.us>
<keithka@Exchange.Microsoft.com>
Sent by: cc:
shop-talk-owner@auto Subject: Re: Ride on mowers
(was RE: weed
x.team.net trimmers)
06/21/2001 06:40 AM
Please respond to
"Nolan Penney"
Couple of points that I've learned the hard way.
The larger the tires, the better. Small tires get stuck easier. If your
yard is flat and smooth, it doesn't really matter, but if you've got slopes
and less then perfect smoothness, it can really make a difference. The
small front tires like find chipmunk holes to fall into and get stuck.
With a larger tire, it at least takes a groundhog hole to fall into and get
stuck. With the rear tires, you also spin in a heartbeat with small rear
tires, as you'll discover if you ever try to pull a wagon up a wet grass
hill or push snow off the driveway.
Weight distribution makes all the world of difference for traction and
turning. With the engine up front, you've not no weight on the rear tires,
and tend to spin going up a hill. The less weight on the rear, the quicker
they are to spin. It will also not turn well on the slope that you're not
getting traction on, because all the weight over the front, particularly
with tiny tires, just plows sideways instead of turning.
Consider how the controls fall to hand and move. A transmission that is
balky about shuttling between forward and reverse will promptly drive you
nuts.
The more complex the belt system for the deck, the worse it will work when
its a few years old. All those pulleys and idlers and such, they get worn,
bent, and out of line with age. Then you start throwing belts regularly,
having blades stall in the deck, and other general maintenance problems,
like trying to fix the complex mess.
I agree about the suggestion to examine a Kubota, for the very reasons
outlined. And no, the Scott is not a Deere, not that a Deere is a Deere
either (it's a Yanmar).
And now to confound you, I'll suggest looking at a Snapper, particularly a
used one.
I'm a cheap skate, at least when it comes to riding mowers. Spending more
on a riding mower then I usually do for a car just baffles me. For well
under $100 you can get a whole lot of used riding mower. Used Snappers at
farm auctions usually go for about $20-60, running well.
I personally like the Snappers because in my experience they are very tough
machines, highly effective, and dirt cheap. Yes, they are loose and sloppy
when brand new, but they stay that way throughout their life, never getting
any worse. The friction drive us quite effective, easy to shift, reliable,
and dirt cheap to maintain. They have a tight turning radius, and are low
slung, so you can manuever around and under shrubs and trees quite well.
With the engine in back, their traction is excellent.
You'll never look impressive sitting on a Snapper; but you'll be relaxing
on the lawn chair drinking expensive imported beers while your neighbor is
still out there fighting his yuppie mower that he's making payments on.
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