Do you think the problem might just be bad contacts in the motor's internal
start/run switch producing lots of resistance but still giving part of the
starting torque ?
> > It could be as simple as a start capacitor.... the gig is that an
electric
> > motor usually doesn't have the butt to start itself so it gets a bit of
a
> > jolt of electricity from this thing to kick start it....
>
> I guess that's one way to put it. All depends on what sort of motor it is
...
> every washing machine I've ever worked on (which isn't a great many) had
an
> inductive start induction motor (which has neither brushes nor starting
> capacitor). Inductive start motors have a separate winding for starting,
and a
> switch or relay that energizes the start winding. If the start winding is
not
> energized for whatever reason, they have to be spun very fast to start
(like
> over 1/2 of synchronous speed). This type of motor is generally used
because it
> has better starting torque than a capacitive start, but costs less than a
motor
> with a commutator.
>
> Without some sort of starting mechanism, a single phase induction motor
will not
> self-start at all. It just kind of quivers, even with no load.
>
> Randall
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