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Re: [Shop-talk] Rivet Steel to Aluminum (or Epoxy?)

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rivet Steel to Aluminum (or Epoxy?)
From: Rush <jdrush@enter.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 00:43:47 -0500
Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
>>I spread a thin layer of silicon caulk between the two pieces. I did this on
>>a race car I restored in '87 and there is absolutely no sign of galvanic
>>reaction.
> 
> 
> I read this differently - that the concern for galvanic reaction
> is at the drilled rivet holes, which will be bare steel and bare aluminum.

That is correct, I'm only worried about the holes I drill into the steel 
and aluminum with the rivet acting as the pathway. But a layer of 
silicon wouldn't be a bad idea to prevent fretting and long-term 
destruction of the coatings.

> If the pieces are pre-drilled and then powder-coated/anodized/passivated,
> I would expect no problems at all.

There are holes that are predrilled, but I think they are too large for 
rivets because they were designed for screws. I don't posses the steel 
so I can't measure them yet. So will most likely be drilling fresh holes 
in the steel.

Even if I do use the original holes, wouldn't the pressure of the pop 
rivet tend to disrupt the finish anyhow?

The mechanical strength required of these riveted connections will be 
tiny. These are small strips of steel. We are more concerned about 
smoothness, appearance and corrosion. I should look up John Blair's 
suggestion of plastic rivets. Or perhaps I should just epoxy these to 
the body. Any thoughts on what epoxy would do to automotive paint and 
powder coating?

Jon
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