Is it one of the super high efficiency models that uses a powered
exhaust vent? If so- make sure that the vent fan is working correctly.
If it's not, you'll get the same symptoms you've described. In my
case, the exhaust vent is plugged into a GFCI. When the GFCI tripped
for some reason, the fan quit and the burner wouldn't fire even though
the pilot was fine.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 6:47 AM, <scott.hall@comcast.net> wrote:
> the pilot stays lit, and the heater can't be any older than the 1990s, when
>the house was built. and you have to hold down the button to light the pilot.
> it's in the garage, but nowhere near a dryer vent. this thing is starting to
>get into "screw it, I'll just buy a new one" territory--the water system has
>been flaky since we bought the house. guess I'll attack the thermostat box.
>
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
>>
>> Guess it depends on how your valve is designed. Although I have seen gas
>> burners where the thermocouple didn't also disable the pilot light; I was
>> under the impression that US law had not allowed that for oh, 50 years or
>> so. On every water heater I've ever owned, if the thermocouple fails, the
>> pilot won't stay lit either.
>>
>> If you have to push and hold a button to light the pilot, the pilot is
>> controlled by the thermocouple. Which would mean the problem lies
>> elsewhere.
>>
>> My water heater is right next to the dryer vent ... a long-standing leak in
>> the vent eventually blew enough lint into the heater burner to clog it up.
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