A nice project for an amateur machinist but while you are working on it
order a new one because your chances of getting it right on the first try
are slim.
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr3driver@ca.rr.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 3:03 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sleeving a hydraulic clutch cylinder
I intend to try doing my own resleeving job on the clutch MC for my 56
Triumph TR3. Yes, I know I could send it out, but where's the fun in that?
The old one is in decent shape overall, but the bore is worn some .045"
oversize and the seal won't hold against such a big gap.
My thought is to stand the aluminum cylinder up in the vertical mill,
supported by big standoffs from the table to the cylinder mounting ears,
bore the cylinder to .001" smaller than the od of some thinwall brass tubing
with a suitable id, then use a mandrel to press the tubing into place with a
few drops of Loctite for good measure. With any luck the brass tubing won't
crush enough to need adjustment, but if it comes out too small, I'll ream or
hone it to size.
Any thoughts on easier, better ways to do this?
Looks like I'll have to first make my own B&S #7 tail for a (new) boring
head. Any advice on that process would be welcome as well.
My thought is to mount some 12L14 in the 3-jaw; center drill and use a live
center to support it while I machine the taper & threads for the boring head
without moving it in the chuck, then drill & tap for the drawbar with the
outer end unsupported. That should leave the taper & head mount perfectly
concentric; I don't really care if the drawbar hole is a bit off.
I'm a rank amateur machinist, so any words of wisdom will be welcome.
--- Randall
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