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Thanks guys. The sled looks pretty easy to make and would certainly do =
the trick. One other suggestion gave me another idea, which would be to =
use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a piece of wood to =
perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, in effect giving =
me a larger flat surface. I would think I could then use a router with =
a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, removing a bit of material =
as I go. The spacer would give me a flat, even surface all the way to =
the inside. I would think that would work fine, without the need to =
build a sled.
However, it may all be academic now. I studied the doors more carefully =
a few hours ago and realized that they are not solid wood, but MDF with =
about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer on the front and an inch or so of poplar on =
the sides. No wonder they are so heavy. The MDF and the poplar are =
about the same color and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole =
saw marks gave the appearance of grain. Probably wishful thinking on my =
part. I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is =
possible a tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the =
way though the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface =
for paint. I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful =
modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. I=E2=80=99ll =
measure extra carefully! I won=E2=80=99t have access to a milling =
machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to stay =
dormant for a week or so. Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime!
Jim
> On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
>=20
> I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local =
shop with a door sized industrial sander.
>=20
> Brian
>=20
> On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
>> I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I =
used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door =
through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side =
and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>>=20
>> I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten =
wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your =
(possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for =
flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>>=20
>> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using =
some plywood and simple rails: =
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M =
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M>
>>=20
>> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the =
door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, =
move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.
>>=20
>> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but =
here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 =
(Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>>=20
>> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" =
aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>>=20
>> --
>> __
>> Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions
>>=20
>>=20
>> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk =
>> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have =
come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I =
need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will =
slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, =
but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the =
kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or =
possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she =
doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try =
something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she =
shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore =
yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, =
at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, =
really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really =
good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only =
problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, =
figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good =
way to make them work.=20
>>=20
>> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by =
tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. =
I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it =
doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - =
is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the =
stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am =
not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20
>> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are =
currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the =
cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D=
x 29=E2=80=9D. =20
>>=20
>> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see =
anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of =
course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do =
the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=
=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the =
budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely =
take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric =
hand planer my best option, or is there another way? They will be =
painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have =
to be smooth and even.
>>=20
>> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>>=20
>> Jim
>> _______________________________________________
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq@bigllama.com>
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net>
>>=20
>=20
--Apple-Mail=_7C56A35E-FB45-46E5-B1E1-D4F4593846AA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
charset=utf-8
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks guys. The sled looks pretty easy to make and =
would certainly do the trick. One other suggestion gave me another =
idea, which would be to use my bench planer to =E2=80=98mill=E2=80=99 a =
piece of wood to perfectly fill the gap between the stile and the panel, =
in effect giving me a larger flat surface. I would think I could =
then use a router with a surfacing bit and work from the outside in, =
removing a bit of material as I go. The spacer would give me a =
flat, even surface all the way to the inside. I would think that =
would work fine, without the need to build a sled.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">However, it may all be academic now. =
I studied the doors more carefully a few hours ago and realized =
that they are not solid wood, but MDF with about an 1/8=E2=80=9D veneer =
on the front and an inch or so of poplar on the sides. No wonder =
they are so heavy. The MDF and the poplar are about the same color =
and I was looking at the lock hole, where the hole saw marks gave the =
appearance of grain. Probably wishful thinking on my part. =
I might be able to take a tiny bit off of each - and it is possible a =
tiny bit might be enough - but imagine that cutting all the way though =
the veneer won=E2=80=99t leave me with an acceptable surface for paint. =
I might be wrong on that, but hopefully I will be successful =
modifying the track and be able to make it work that way. I=E2=80=99=
ll measure extra carefully! I won=E2=80=99t have access to a =
milling machine until after the holidays, so this project will have to =
stay dormant for a week or so. Plenty to keep me busy in the =
meantime!</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jim<br=
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Dec 22, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Brian Kemp <<a =
href=3D"mailto:bk13@earthlink.net"; class=3D"">bk13@earthlink.net</a>> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
=20
<div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" class=3D"">
I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a
local shop with a door sized industrial sander.<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Brian<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman =
via
Shop-talk wrote:<br class=3D"">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" =
cite=3D"mid:CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=3Dw@mail.gma=
il.com" class=3D"">
<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">I just did something similar: =
had a door that was
too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4"
deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit
less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch
side.
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">I think you can do something similar. Look =
up "router jig
to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and
as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers =
use
this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the =
like.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">Here's a good video that explains it and shows =
how to make
it using some plywood and simple rails: <a =
href=3D"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M"; =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M</a></div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and =
set the jig
on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a
time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter =
of the
bit, make another pass, etc.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">You might not even need to finish the final =
surface with a
plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the
Stanley No. 62 (Orange big box has them for =
~$100).</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, =
where I used
a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div>
<div class=3D""><br clear=3D"all" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" =
data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">--<br class=3D"">
__<br class=3D"">
Miq Millman <a href=3D"mailto:miq@bigllama.com"; =
target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">miq@bigllama.com</a><br class=3D"">
Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions<br class=3D"">
</div>
</div>
<br class=3D"">
</div>
</div>
<br class=3D"">
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at =
6:26
AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net"; moz-do-not-send=3D"true" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br class=3D"">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">I am installing a barn door in my recently =
remodeled
house and have come up with a problem I would like the
group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to put up a pair =
of 8=E2=80=99 x 30"
barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but =
it
needs to fit into a pocket. When we =
designed/installed
the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 =
3/8=E2=80=9D
- 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make out of =
tongue and
groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife =
has
lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of =
the board
door and wants to try something different. I wanted =
to
install something temporary while she shops and decides
and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore =
yesterday to
see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick,
at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had =
a
pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50
each that would look really good in the house. They =
are
solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that
they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, =
figuring I
could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a =
good way
to make them work. </div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">There is a possibility that I might be able =
to make the
doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, =
but doubt the
wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99=
t work, my
only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to
narrow the doors a bit. This <i class=3D"">should</i> =
be possible,
since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, =
respectively, so
I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the
door. </div>
<div class=3D"">(For what it is worth, I should add here =
that while the
doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to
make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be
cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =
</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">I currently have a good bench top planer =
that I can=E2=80=99t
see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new =
one
or another tool that would do the job. We are =
probably
looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors =
that
make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget
for a new tool. So, what does the group think? =
Can I
safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these =
doors. Is
an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
another way? They will be painted in the end, so I =
can
fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth
and even.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy =
Holidays to
all!</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">Jim</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D"">
Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; =
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Suggested annual donation $12.96<br class=3D"">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"; =
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m</a><br class=3D"">
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br class=3D"">
<fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" =
wrap=3D"">_______________________________________________
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net"; =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; =
moz-do-not-send=3D"true">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" =
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href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net=
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</pre>
</blockquote>
<br class=3D"">
</div>
</div></blockquote></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=
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