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I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local
shop with a door sized industrial sander.
Brian
On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
> I just did something similar:Â had a door that was too wide, so I used
> a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door
> through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge
> side and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>
> I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten
> wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your
> (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for
> flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>
> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using
> some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M
>
> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the
> door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a
> pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another
> pass, etc.
>
> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but
> here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62Â
> (Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>
> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2"
> aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>
> --
> __
> Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk
>
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and
> have come up with a problem I would like the groupâ??s help with. I
> need to put up a pair of 8â?? x 30" barn doors, one of which will
> slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket
> door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we
> designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets
> for a 1 3/8â?? - 1 1/2â?? door, which I planned to make out of tongue
> and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has
> lately decided that she doesnâ??t like the look of the board door
> and wants to try something different. I wanted to install
> something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to
> Habitat for Humanityâ??s ReStore yesterday to see if they had
> anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
> holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice,
> 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good
> in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only
> problem is that they are 1 3/4â?? thick. I bought them anyway,
> figuring I could always donate them back if there wasnâ??t a good
> way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work
> by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1
> 5/8â??. I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that
> precise. It it doesnâ??t work, my only option - besides re-donating
> the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This /should/ be
> possible, since the stiles and rails are 4â?? and 8â??, respectively,
> so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
> currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the
> cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about
> 84â?? x 29â??.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I canâ??t see anyway
> to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of
> course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that
> would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for
> a pair of 8â?? doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of
> room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group
> think? Can I safely take about 1/8â?? off each face of these
> doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
> another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in
> any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
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>
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I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a
local shop with a door sized industrial sander.<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via
Shop-talk wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALUbS3E6Z1bQErv0sihka3z5gL_at6ghfoqfq38GwKPQEP4H=w@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">I just did something similar:Â had a door that was
too wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4"
deeper then ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit
less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch
side.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig
to flatten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and
as wide as your (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use
this kind of rig for flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make
it using some plywood and simple rails:Â Â <a
href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M";
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M</a></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig
on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a
time. Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the
bit, make another pass, etc.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>You might not even need to finish the final surface with a
plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the
Stanley No. 62Â (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used
a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div>
<div><br clear="all">
<div>
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br>
__<br>
Miq Millman  <a href="mailto:miq@bigllama.com";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>
Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26
AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <<a
href="mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style="overflow-wrap: break-word;">
<div>I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled
house and have come up with a problem I would like the
groupâ??s help with. I need to put up a pair of 8â?? x 30"
barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a tall
kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it
needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed
the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8â??
- 1 1/2â?? door, which I planned to make out of tongue and
groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has
lately decided that she doesnâ??t like the look of the board
door and wants to try something different. I wanted to
install something temporary while she shops and decides
and we went to Habitat for Humanityâ??s ReStore yesterday to
see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick,
at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a
pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50
each that would look really good in the house. They are
solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that
they are 1 3/4â?? thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I
could always donate them back if there wasnâ??t a good way
to make them work. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>There is a possibility that I might be able to make the
doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the
opening is about 1 5/8â??. I will try that, but doubt the
wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesnâ??t work, my
only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to
narrow the doors a bit. This <i>should</i> be possible,
since the stiles and rails are 4â?? and 8â??, respectively, so
I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the
door. Â </div>
<div>(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the
doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to
make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be
cutting them down to about 84â?? x 29â??. Â </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I currently have a good bench top planer that I canâ??t
see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might
work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one
or another tool that would do the job. We are probably
looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8â?? doors that
make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget
for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I
safely take about 1/8â?? off each face of these doors. Is
an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can
fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth
and even.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to
all!</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Jim</div>
</div>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
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moz-do-not-send="true">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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