Good lord At !
Wanna come south and look at mine ?
-----Original Message-----
From: Atwell Haines [mailto:carbuff@nac.net]
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 3:33 PM
To: John Weber; spit list
Subject: Re: It runs!
Hoo Haa, yer in for the ride of your life! What's a guy named Weber
doing
messing around with a Stromberg, anyhow? ;-)
First, about the Haynes manual...it is actually very valuable and
accurate.
Chapters 15 and 16 get into the emissions carbs (suffix E) and the water
choke.
First some backround: what was replaced (the standard rebuild kits
don't
do everything on the unit) when you rebuilt the carb?
Have you pulled the air piston and looked CAREFULLY down at the jet hole
in
the air bridge? Use a magnifying glass! If it looks the least bit oval,
it
might pay to get another carb (or, *ahem*..a Weber). The jets are not
repairable on the CDE.
Will oil stay in the dashpot? If it drains into the carb, there is a
o-ring
that must be replaced, and they are not included in the r/b kits. Big
air/vacuum leak there.
Let us know the above, then we'll go on. BTW, hows the ignition system
on
the engine? Vacuum leaks all eliminated? Good dizzy cap, rotor, & plug
wires, no wobble to the Distributor? Consistent timing with the vacuum
retard diaphragm plugged?
But you _did_ have some specific questions, didn't you?
At 10:50 AM 2/19/99 -0800, John Weber wrote:
>Heyo!
> I'd love to know the settings for
>the mixture valve on the side (the one that says don't touch, of course
>I did, it was filthy).
If you are referring to the 'fine idle CO screw' (on the front side of
the
carb, with the plastic limiter cap) GENTLY go clockwise 'till it stops,
then park it 1/2 to 1 turn CCW. This is the fine mixture adjustment.
If you are referring to the Deceleration and Bypass valve (metal, with a
tempting-to-adjust screw on the side, held by a serrated washer) that's
different. You can cut a blanking gasket to temporarily get it out of
the
way, but as noted just last week, that can lead to some backfiring.
If you still have the water choke, you can temporarily blank that off
too.
>I'd also like to know the static settings for
>the damper air valve slide up and down doohickey with the needle jet
>that goes up and down with the special tool that I had to buy but can't
>figure out exactly what is required to set the mixture et cetera.
This is the coarse mixture setting. Using the outer collar of the tool
to
prevent the air piston from turning, go clockwise 'till resistance is
_just_ met [full rich]. Five and 1/2 turns CCW from there is full lean,
and
should be where the needle disengages from its threads. Mine stablized
about four 3/4 turns CCW from rich.
If you have the piston out, a good starting place is to have the needle
holder flush with the base of the piston.
Make sure the piston and diaphragm are correctly oriented (those
hard-to-see dimples must be in the right places). If they are, the
needle's setscrew ends up out of sight but pointing towards the front of
the car.
For such a simple carb, the subtle details really make a big difference
in
how well the engine operates. A lot of the settings are spelled out in
the
Bentley manual, if you have that.
Waiting to hear from you. (They always come back for more, hee-hee.)
Atwell Haines
'79 Spitfire FM96062 UO
Succasunna, NJ USA
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