Don't be tempted to remove the indicator bulb. Its required to "excite" the
alternator to begin putting out voltage during start.
Just think of it as a alternator is working OK bulb!
Peter S
----- Original Message -----
From: <DANMAS@aol.com>
To: <neil.mcallister@fvrl.bc.ca>; <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Calling Dan Masters...
>
> In a message dated 6/1/99 12:41:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> neil.mcallister@fvrl.bc.ca writes:
>
> >
> > Hi Dan,
> >
> > Please tell me what to do oh great electrical guru:
> >
> > 1980 1500 mostly stock but with a 1980 GM alternator.
> >
> > My red light is always on dimly (can't be seen in direct sunlight, can
be
> > seen
> > in garage) when the motor is running. It has done this ever since I
bought
> > it.
> > Changes in RPM has no effect. Putting on the headlights makes it
slightly
> > brighter.
> >
> > Voltmeter at battrey shows steady 15v.; about 13.5v - 14v. with
headlights
> > on.
> > Battrey is new. Every bulb, instrument, motor, etc... on the car
works
> > just
> > fine. I've cleaned every connection I can lay my hands on. Any
ideas??
>
> Neil,
>
> My guess is you've got a slightly faulty alternator. It seems to be
working
> OK, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you're getting 15 volts at the
battery,
> and the battery is staying charged, then there's no problem of any
> seriousness.
>
> When you say you get 13.4 - 14 volts with the headlights on, what rpm is
the
> engine turning? If it's over 1500 rpm, your alternator may be a bit weak.
A
> weak alternator is usually indicative of a defective regulator circuit or
bad
> diodes, which can also be the cause of the light staying on when it
shouldn't.
>
> Dan Masters,
> Alcoa, TN
>
> '71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
> '71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion -
see:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas/
> '74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8
soon
> '68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
>
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