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disk brake master cylinder

To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: disk brake master cylinder
From: Dave Garron <bugeye@neca.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 14:55:49 +0000
Cc: "Gary S." <speckman@coredcs.com>, "Phil Vanner" <pvanner@pclink.com>
In-reply-to: <199710181209.HAA02099@chaos.coredcs.com>
Reply-to: Dave Garron <bugeye@neca.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Gary wrote:
>Dave, If you have front disks and are looking at a rebuild of the rest of
>the brake system,  do it right.  Put in the dual line master cylinder set up
>from a late model car, change the rear brake backing plates and add the new
>model rear brakes as well.  You will be amazed at the improvement in braking
>performance.
>

It sounds like the best way to go, but I'll probably end up sticking with a
twin master/clutch cylinder (unless I end up needing a new one and can't 
find any).  I'm assuming I have a 7/8" bore right now, although since the
Toadster came to me with a 1098 and wire wheels, I can't vouch for the
originality of anything.

I was thinking of sending my cylinder to Apple Hydraulics to be resleeved,
I wonder if it could be turned into a 3/4"?  Anybody out there ever tried it?

then Phil wrote:
>How does the original master cylinder feel with disc brakes? I understand
>that with a wider bore it will take less pedal to move the same amount of
>fliud down the lines, what does it do for feel?

It feels like I need to be spending some time at the gym.  It might take
less pedal, but it sure takes a lot of force.  I've never driven in a stock
1098, so I don't have anything to compare it to, but when I have to stop
quickly, it often feels like I'm not going to make it.  I'm still alive,
though, so maybe it's just a matter of perception.

What I might do for now is just throw a kit into the cylinder (after measuring
the bore), hope that cures or at least slows my fluid loss, and spend the
winter paralyzed by indecision.
  
take care & thanks,
Dave



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