>From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
>They recommended line boring the engine. His reasoning was that this
>would help to get the rear oil slinger seal to actually seal.
>Is this true?
I think its the clearance between the crank and the block/rear housing
that is most important to the oil not leaking out and if you supply
Vaccuum to the crankcase this should prevent oil leaks.
>
>Also, I don't really understand line boring. Is significant material
>removed so that bearings with a bigger OD are required? Or is a drill
run
>through that doesn't remove any material unless the mains don't line
up?
A boring bar is run through, unless the caps have been replaced or the
block is warped this is normally not necessary. In any case line honing
is preferred, In the 3 midget and 10 or so B engines I have rebuilt I
have never needed to have this done, did have it done to an MGC engine
though because it had thrown a rod and demolished the first block after
one of the new rod bolts failed. Was not taking any chances the second
time around and used ARP rod bolts.
>
>Furthermore I can't decide if I need new head studs and rod bolts.
>Any advice?
>I have three choices:
>a) use old hardware
>b) use new stock hardware
>c) use ARP hardware
With 9.5:1 compression the standard hardware should be good enough, if
you can measue the original studs and they have not been stretched go
ahead and reuse them. ARP studs are pretty darn good, we put them on a
midget 11:1 ratio, with a stage 3 cam that kept blowing headgaskets and
the problem went away, if you can afford them get them, I have the part
numbers if you need them, try special ordering from a local speedshop
sometimes they will be cheaper.
Also have the machine shop counterbore the holes the headstuds go in the
area around the threads sometimes pulls up preventing the head from
seating properly.
6500 RPM is within the capability of all the stock hardware on the
engine for occasional use, for consistent 6500rpm use some upgrades are
necessary.
Measure the rod bolts if they are within spec they should be safe for
reuse as well but if its a high mileage motor it might be safer to
replace anyway A thrown rod will ruin your whole block a broken head
stud will just ruin your day.
>
>Of course c) would be safest but would also cost over $200. I feel
that
>if I go for the best solution in every aspect I'll end up with a
>$2500 motor, so I need to save some money somewhere. So, is the stock
>hardware marginal and do I NEED better hardware?
>
>This will be a 1380cc, 9.5:1, VP7 cam (not too radical), torque motor.
>Max rpm probably 6500rpm.
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