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Re: Distributor problems

To: midgets <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>, mgs <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Distributor problems
From: "William M. Gilroy" <wmgilroy@lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 18:09:55 -0400
Organization: Lucent Technologies
References: <35FFFC33.7243C72F@lucent.com>
Reply-to: "William M. Gilroy" <wmgilroy@lucent.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
William M. Gilroy wrote:

> 
> My car is a 1977 Midget with a 1500 cc engine.  Last night I went to
> start a tune-up on the car.  I was first going to adjust the air
> gap on the electronic ignition.  I took the distributor cap off and
> imagine my surprise when I found points in my dizzy. 

I finally found out which dizzy I have in my car.  I looked at the dizzy
and it looked like a 25D but the cap was different.  The cap in the Haynes
Midget manual has terminals that screw in and mine had regular one that
just push on.  I removed the dizzy and looked for a part number.  I found
one that said 25D (but the various shop manuals said the cars had a 25D4)
and it also had another part number, 41401A.  I used that number to look
up the dizzy in a Lucas Service manual and found that it as a 25D4 dizzy.
One question answered. 

Other listers experience pointed out the following.  The original electronic
dizzy was not very good or reliable.  Most have been replace by other
dizzys.  These replacements could be/from: a Mallory, the 25D4 Lucas, 
a Lucas electronic, a Delco, or a Triumph Spitfire.  The only way to tell
(at least for me) is to pull the dizzy and look for a part number.

>     1.  Dizzy wobbles.  Can it be fix or rebuilt?

As for fixing the wobble several listers suggested that it could be 
rebuilt.  I will have to find out how, and more important where do you
get parts.  Replacement could be with either another Lucas 25D or a 
Mallory (no I do not want to debate which is better, if at all).

>     2.  If I keep this dizzy what is the correct point gap/dwell?

Point gap should be set to .016 as suggested by some listers and in the
shop manuals.

>     3.  What should I do with the vacuum advance and how do I
>        assure that it is correct?  What is it hooked to?

Currently my vacuum advance will not hold a vacuum.  I will revisit
this later.  But, you can test it by sticking the end of the hose 
in your mouth and give the vacuum unit a suck, this will tell you 
if there is a leak or not.  Retard should have been hooked to the 
intake manifold. Advance goes to the carb.

>     5. How do I determine what is the correct point and condenser for
>        this dizzy.

Just pick the ones for the 25D4.  Simple once you know what parts you
are dealing with.

> 
> The only other issue I can think of is the coil in my car is a 6 volt
> coil (use a ballast resistor.)  Is this the correct coil or should I
> go to a 12v coil?  Does it matter?

The coil and ballast resistor should be fine.

What I am going to do is see about either rebuilding my current unit
or swapping it with another one that does not wobble (thanks to a generous
lister).   That about covers the answers to my questions.  Feel free to 
contact me if I got it wrong or left something out.

-- 
Bill Gilroy
77 Midget
E-mail:    wmgilroy@lucent.com
Telephone: 732-957-4775
Fax:       732-957-4775

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