I totally agree with Steve on this one Don... I never sand a base coat
clear coat system... My Hundred has a hand done acrylic lacquer paint job
that I did 20 yrs ago and the shine is still there.... Now lets talk about
the cracks and chipping and so on... Laquer even acrylics... have poor
flexibility.... the enamels and 2 part epoxies have much more flexibility
in the surface itself... with these cars there is a tendency to flex the
sheet metal and that will over time in an acrylic lacquer will cause
checking as well as the propensity for rock chips to be more distinct...
My recommendation would be for an acrylic enamel or a two part epoxy...
same base coat clear coat system.....
the primary differences in the paints is how they dry and how long that
process takes...
Lacquers dry simply through evaporation
Enamels dry though evaporation and intaking oxygen through the process of
oxidation..
Epoxy type paints dry through the chemical reaction in the two part
solution...
The beauty of Lacquer is that it dries relatively fast and hence the
Non-professional can do satisfactory work in his drive way.. so to speak
I have also done some satisfactory Enamel work in my drive way...
my problem with two part paints is that they are... or can be very toxic...
The use of a high quality respirator is mandatory with these paints where
with Enamels or Lacquers you can get away with a normal painters
respirator....
These are my opinions based on owning a paint and body shop 15 yr. ago and
continuing to do my own paint work for the last 20 yr.... I am sure some on
this list have better ideas on how to get all of this done... these are
just my thoughts...
Let me know when you get to the buffing as that is my specialty.... like my
welding.. I may not be a great welder but I am one FINE FINE GRINDER...
the Bonneville car was painted in what I suspect was a sand blasting
room... and my son and I did a pretty fair job of making that paint
shine...
Keith Turk BN2, AN5,AN9, Bville Camero... Getting ready for its next paint
job... to be done in the drive...
----------
> From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: don browne <browne@ici.net>; spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Need Painting advice
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 3:06 PM
>
> Hi, Don!
> I used a PPG acrylic lacquer basecoat/clear coat on my Midget. You do
> not have to buff the basecoat, since the shine and depth comes from the
> clearcoat anyway. After polishing the clearcoat, the paint job looks
like
> glass, and after almost 3 years I haven't had any problems with it. Even
> here in the wilds of North Carolina, lacquer is becoming scarce because
of
> environmental concerns. Did you have trouble finding it?
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC USA
> '73 Midget GAN5UD126009G "OO NINE"
> "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
>
> ----------
> > From: don browne <browne@ici.net>
> > To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Need Painting advice
> > Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:11 PM
> >
> > Just finished up a 2 day marathon of priming the 59 bugeye. Hope to
> start
> > painting next weekend, and need some advice...
> > I'm using acrylic laquer, should I attempt basecoat/clearcoat (I think
> > so...) and if I do, before I apply the clear , do I need to buff the
> > basecoat (I know I should sand with 1000, but if I buff is it going to
be
> > too smooth for the clearcoat to bond...)
> > Thanks for the help, all of my books are failing me on this one.
> >
> > Don Browne & Karin Sanborn
> > http://browne.pair.com, browne@ici.net
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