If you do decide to use scale models and a home built tunnel,
there are a couple of important things to take care of.
1) Reynolds Number (size, density, airspeed, viscosity all combine
to make a scale model act the same (aerodynamically) as the full
size.
2) "straightness" of the air. Baffles and honeycomb (in-line) are used to
reduce the turbulence and vorticity of the air.
If you want to be *really* fancy, you could include a rolling road as part
of the tunnel.
Of course if you just want a faster sprite, why not buy the sebring coupe
replica kit from Brian Archer. It's aerodynamics would be a lot better
than stock and it is a purdy little thing.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ramsey <dwramsey@worldnet.att.net>
To: Daniel1312@aol.com <Daniel1312@aol.com>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: Wind tunnel access
>Daniel,
> This was the same problem Carol Shelby had with the Cobra in the 60's.
They hit a "brick wall" at around 160 mph and no amount of additional HP
could fix it, and he was pulling 750 to 900 hp. The result of this was the
Daytona Coupe and then the GT 40 (capable of 235+ mph with the same motor).
> Now back to your problem of wind tunnel access, have you thought of making
your own. All you really need is wind and a tunnel. So a tube and variable
speed fan should do. Then with a little smoke and wind speed indicator,
your set. I would do this at scale and use 1/24 scale models kits. A desk
top wind tunnel shouldn't cost all that much and would give you valid usable
data.
> Crash
>
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