The key words I noted were... I got a used master cylinder. Rebuild it or
throw it. Like they say: if you've got a 50 dollar head go buy a 50 dollar
helmet. Same philosphy for brakes in my book.
Greg Schulz
58 Sprite (vintage)
82 Corvette (street)
Cedarburg, WI
otte@cats.ucsc.edu on 04/01/99 11:49:25 PM
Please respond to otte@cats.ucsc.edu
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
cc: (bcc: Gregory Schulz/MED/IT/ATLAS COPCO)
Subject: brake drag
I have a Mk II sprite that I recently switched to the later brake system.
I got a used master cylendar and got new rear brake kit from Victoria,
which includes new slave cyls and springs. I finally managed to get the
rear backing plates set up so they don't grind, but I noticed that my rear
wheels get very hot after driving. I also noticed that after letting up on
the brakes I didn't seem to coast freely. Upon closer inspection, I find
that if I jack up the wheels they will spin freely. But if I step on the
brakes, and then let off the brakes, they won't spin at all for about 20 or
30 seconds after the brakes are let off. After that they don't spin very
free, and it is difficult to turn them. It evidently takes a very long
time before they will spin freely again. I tried loosening up the
adjustment on the shoes, but it didn't help at all; they behave the same.
I checked the springs (they are new also), and they are all there and seem
to pull the shoes together. The pedal also has a spring on it, so it
returns immediately.
So am I doomed to have hot rear drums, or is there a way to stop this drag?
I can't figure out why the springs are not pulling the shoes together more
quickly after I let off the brake pedal.
Thanks,
Ric Otte
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