The Quaiffe is very nice but expensive, I wish I had one. The Morris Minor
rear diffs are not allowed in SCCA Solo2 Street Prepared unless they were
available fron the factory in a Spridget. (that'll bump you to Prepared)
Locally, I can use one in SP, as the Metropolitan Council of Sports Car
Clubs (TwinCities, Minnesota) rules allow the use of any diff that fits in
SP. Again, at the local level a Minor diff isn't likely to get you bumped
up all by itself, particularly if you're new. ( ... must resist the urge to
work a "minor difference" pun here...)
Phil Vanner
now I think I need an even lower rear gear...
-----Original Message-----
From: Angela Hervey-Tennyson & Peter Westcott [SMTP:toobmany@bigpond.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 5:04 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Autocross car preparation.
Two things
Don't make your engine too peaky
Morris Minor diffs are 4.55:1 and will do the job nicely. If you can run
to a Quaiffe centre as well it will be very tasty.
Peter
----------
From: Lancer7676@aol.com
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Autocross car preparation.
Date: Tuesday, 18 May 1999 22:13
I have been undecided as to the direction to go with my LBC's and have been
considering a possiblity. I would like some input from the list. I have a
good running 1979 Midget. I bought the Midget in good running and good
looking shape to have one to drive while I worked on my 1967 Sprite, which
is
now, and yes, still, a body shell. Lots of welding and finishing to do
there
although I have completed the 1275 engine rebuild and it is ready to drop
in.
I have also acquired a 1973 Midget, restorable, but I have vacillated
between using that body in the rebirth of my 1967 (I like the round wheel
arches), restoring it (really dont want to get into that much work
again--the
1967 is taking all my time), or, now I am thinking of turning it into an
Autocross car.
My questions are:
(1) Considering the 1973 is fairly sound--needing lower front door posts
on
both sides, cosmetic work on the right rocker, replacement of the metal
below
the boot lid, and a new rear boot floor--, and considering that I do have
strong limitations on money, Can anyone tell me the order of work that I
might get the most payback from doing on this car, in terms of turning it
into a non-street, strictly Autocross car? That is assuming I do the
bodywork first.
(2) Since the car would be utilized only as an Autocross car, and would be
towed to the events, Is it necessary to replace the lower front door hinge
posts? Or would it be acceptable to clean out the rust as much as
possible,
treat it to stop it, connect the door by the top hinge and the door latch,
then to weld the door solidly shut on the inside?
(3) What type of engine modifications would I need to make in rebuilding
the
1275 that came with the 1973 to make it the best engine for an Auto cross
car?
(4) I have been told I need a rear end with high ratio--like high 4.+.
Are
these available as standard rear end ratios or are these specially built
differentials?
(5) Any other information regarding this possible rebuild will be welcome
and usefull to me--including words of advice, tire types and sizes, used
but
good Autocross parts and/or equipment, books of reference, and/or websites
to
go to with Autocross rebuild information.
Thanks guys!! Your input will help me make a decision about the direction
I
want to go with that '73!
David
|