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Re: Temperature Question 2

To: Michael Dietsche <mdietsche@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Temperature Question 2
From: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 10:30:05 -0400
Cc: "Gronberg, John" <john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com>, MG List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
References: <19990603141357.9650.rocketmail@web103.yahoomail.com>
Reply-to: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
John -

Is it possible you dented the bulb a bit?  That would tend
(theoretically) to show a consistently higher reading than before the
work, because the internal volume of the bulb would be reduced.  I have
no idea whether this could be enough to account for the varaince, but
it's maybe worth a look.

Chris Kotting
ckotting@iwaynet.net

Michael Dietsche wrote:
> 
> Now it doesn't sound like you had a thermostat problem.  Running with the
> gutted plate showed how cool the system could possibly run.....190 deg at the
> gage.  So you're not gonna get it to run any cooler than that with any
> thermostat; in fact, with a working thermostat installed it will stabilize a
> little higher than the 190 gage (because of the additional restriction a true
> thermostat offers versus the gutted plate).  And that's pretty much what you
> initially reported, with a stabilzed gage reading at 200 deg after the
> thermostat opened up.
> 
> 190 deg free flow seems a little high to me too, especially since your earlier
> post implied it used to run cooler before you did the cooling system work.  It
> comes down to the remaining possibilities -- the gage reading is off, or the
> rest of the system isn't cooling as well as it used to.
> 
> I know you have confidence in the gage, but it's probably the easiest thing to
> check and the easiest problem to resolve if that's really what's going on 
>here.
>  Personally I'd verify that it's really running at that temp, since the
> operation of the system seems normal except for the somewhat high reading.  
>But
> if it really is running slightly hot, look at all the components you changed
> out first, then at the rest of the system for secondary effects/faults.
> 
> It's always possible that the recored radiator isn't as good or is restricted
> somehow.  Or a new hose could be pinched, or crud could have been introduced
> into the system, or something's up with the water pump, etc. etc.  But unless
> you see something obvious I'd verify the water temp to make sure there's 
>really
> a problem.  You'd hate to tear into it and do something drastic to solve a
> non-existent problem....
> 
> "If you disturb it, it will fail."
> 
> MD
> 
> --- "Gronberg, John" <john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com> wrote:
> > Last night I took a thermostat and removed the "guts" from it and
> > reinstalled the gutted plate back in the car.  The car got up to 190 F and
> > stayed there. Does that point to the Trak brand thermostats not opening up
> > all the way?
> >
> > Regards
> > John Gronberg
> > Siemens Building Technologies, Inc.
> > Buffalo Grove, Illinois 60089-4513
> > Phone:  847-215-1050 ex 5092
> > Fax:      847-229-3658
> > Email:  john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com
> >
> >
> >
> 
> ===
> 
> Michael B. Dietsche, P.E.

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