derfman wrote:
>
> First, why are you using a realy on your fuel pump? Second, why a 30
> amp? Bear in mind the KISS theory. The more connections/devices in a
> circuit, the more potential problems you will have. If you want to be
> cool, run a piece of 14 or 16 gauge wire from a fuse that gets voltage
> when you turn on the key to a switch (spst) concealed under the dash
> somewhere. Run a wire from the switch to the fuel pump positive
> terminal. Turn the switch off for anti-theft mode, on for operation.
> Otherwise, run the wire without the switch to the pump. Better yet, use
> the wires that powered the old pump if there was one.
>
> To answer your question about the relay terminals: it depends on the
> maker as to which terminal is marked what. But, a DC realy coil should
> be wired only one way + to +, - to ground(chassis).
>
> Also, the only stupid question is the one that would have saved grief if
> it had been asked, but wasn't.
>
> Cheers,
> Derf
The reason for a relay is I only want the pump to run when the key
is on and I don't want an extra switch. If I have a switch that I need to
throw to turn the pump off I am sure that the pump will run 24/7. As for
the relay, I figure that the less current I draw though the stock harness the
better. As for the 30/40 Amp size it seems to be the most common relay that
auto parts stores have in stock. I am sure I could find another lower amp
relay if I tried but why bother. The pump is rated at 2 amps. This is why
I chose a relay, it seemed like the safe choice.
Bill Gilroy
77 Midget
90 Shar-Pei
E-mail: wmgilroy@lucent.com
Telephone: 732-817-4775
Fax: 732-817-4775
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