William M Walters wrote:
>
> Well, everybody's advice as to where to locate the nipple on the clutch
> slave was good. Thanks. We cracked it to bleed the line and now have no
> pedal pressure. I pumped for a long time and got nothing. Sooooo to
> make a short story long, we decided to remove the master cylinder and do
> a rebuild on it. I told you this was a learning experience.
> The directions in the repair manual seemed simple enough. "Remove the two
> bolts atttaching the master to the box and place the cylinder on a work
> bench. HA HA!!!! We spent the entire evening trying to get the second
> bolt off. No wrench could reach it. Now, can anyone tell me the "right"
> way to do this, for future reference? Also, what happened to the pedal
> pressure It went from OK one night to zero the next. Is it difficult to
> do a rebuild on this?
With the pedal box out of the car, weld the nuts to it so you don't have
this problem the next time.
You can get the bolts out with a few choice words and a combination of
1/2" wrenches and sockets but it is no fun.
Power bleeding the clutch works best for me. I drilled a hole in a spare
master cap, insert a blow gun tip and froce 20 - 25 psi of compressed
air thru the system while a helper shuts the bleeder nipple once all the
air bubbles are out.
No pumping, takes about a minute. EZ Bleed is the same setup which uses
air from your tire, they are available from most suppliers.
If you do not have a spare master cap, find any plastic cap that screws
on the master, check the wifes cleaning cabinet for bottles with the
correct cap or pop off the top venting portion of the master cap, drill
a 1/4" hole in it, use it to power bleed and pop the venting part back
on.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Down to only 3 Sprites, 1 Midget and an A40 Farina
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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