I usally just "gravity bleed" the clutch. Hook everything up, including
your hose-and-jar, then >>just<< crack the bleed screw open. Go away
for a while (half an hour). The fluid will slowly displace the air.
When the fluid gets to the bleed screw, it will stop (or darned near)
because it is more viscous than air.
Bleed it normally for a couple of gentle pumps, and you're done.
If you're inclined to using silicone brake fluid (not to start that
argument), it works well, because it minimizes Silicone's tendency to
entrain air in tiny bubbles in the fluid.
My $0.00002
Chris K.
William M Walters wrote:
>
> I read a few letters recently about how to bleed the hydraulic system for
> the clutch. One guy even said that he uses air pressure to force the
> fluid through the system thus forcing the air bubbles out. We tried
> that. Couldn't get it to work but managed to obtain a spray-back of
> fluid all over the engine compartment. We can't get any feeling of
> pressure on the pedal. We have disconnected the hose at the master and
> held a finger over the outlet hole. Then we get pressure on both the
> finger and the pedal. When we add the long hydraulic line that passes
> through the engine compartment, we can't get pressure at either end.
> When we try to bleed at the slave we get bubbles but the pedal pressure
> doesn't seem to get better. We've worked on this darned thing for two
> long evenings with no apparent gain in toward the fix.
> Can anyone help here?
> Bill
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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