In a message dated 06/02/2000 11:07:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jurban@connectecs.com writes:
<< 1) I've used Brakleen to clean the outside and the bores. The two halves
are still together. Have I ruined the inner seals by using Brakleen?? How
will I know if the seals are now bad, look for leaks?? >>
Brakleen will not ruin any seals, but there aren't any seals inside the
calipers that I know of. If you take the halves apart, there is an o-ring
seal that seals the hole where the fluid goes between the halves. Just don't
take the halves apart and you won't have any problem with that o-ring. Rinse
the caliper with alcohol and blow compressed air thru to dry it.
<< 2) How "clean" should the bores be and how do I clean up minor surface
imperfections?? Is there a sure-fire way to clean up the seal ridges??
It's pretty tough to get into the seal rings without splitting the calipers.
>>
The actual seal is made against the piston, so new pistons, or very shiney
old ones, is the most critical part of having good calipers. The cylinders
should not be rusty, especially where the seals fit into the grooves. And
there should be no loose rust that can flake off into the inside of the
calipers. (This should be obvious.)
I used a Dremel with a variety of wire brushes to clean up the cylinders,
then a polish with crocus cloth. (Fine emory paper.)
MAK SURE EVERYTHING IS CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE REASSEMBLY!
The biggest trick is reassembly. When you press the pistons and seals in
together, be prepared with an extra seal, because it is not easy. I made a
piece of plywood, bigger than the piston, that sits on top of the piston and
metal seal. I pressed it in gently with a c-clamp. It worked fine on one,
and fine the SECOND time on the other one! Remember to lubricate when you
assemble. Use brake assembly lube or some brake fluid.
Good luck, Jason.
Allen Hefner
Philly Region SCCA Rally Steward
'77 Midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
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