If you always want the driving lights to come on with the high beams then I
think you need to put in a relay. There is a serious question as to the
ability of the high beam circuit to carry the extra load of the driving
lights. If you want control of the driving lights to be independent of the
high beams then install a separate switch just for the driving lights. The
halogen head lights do not add any load to the circuit assuming your lamps
are 45 W low beam and 55 W high beam. The halogens just put out more light
for the same watts.
Bob and Annice
1960 Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
1967 Sprite Mk III (in progress)
In a message dated 8/31/00 1:57:12 PM, mdietsche@yahoo.com writes:
<< > We have had a 1971 Midget that has the turn signal, high/low/flash
> combination switch for about ten days. It has been converted to halogen
> sealed beams. Driving lights have been added by putting a two to one
> connector in the blue with white stripe high beam wire in front of the
> radiator. The high beams and driving lights did not work either at the high
> beam setting or the flash setting when we got it. The problem is in the
> combination switch. It has no continuity between the purple wire and the
> blue/white wire in high beam or flash positions. I have ordered a new
> combination switch.
>
> My question to the list is what is the best way to install driving lights
to
> keep from having elect problems?
>
> Should the driving lights and/or the halogen sealed beams be put on
separate
> circuits with relays to keep from burning the contacts out of the
combination
>
> switch? There is a 30 amp fuse in the 7-8 position on the fuse block.
Would
>
> that be the correct size? Lots of smaller wire for interior lamps, boot
lamp,
>
> etc also connected to that fuse. Comments and suggestions on how to get
this
> right would be appreciated. >>
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