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now wire wheels RE: Fw: UNDO torque

To: "Spridgets@Autox. Team. Net (E-mail)" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: now wire wheels RE: Fw: UNDO torque
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:23:12 -0800
And this is the exact reason I don't own wire wheels. Too much confusion and
hammering. Like this thread! Bolt on a pair of normal wheels, set your
impact gun to "stun" and drive off.


>KISS ... everyone is afraid of either bending spokes with
>a misplaced hammer blow, or damaging their spinners.
>
>Keep a short (10"-18") piece of 2"x4" in the trunk.
>lay the edge/end of the 2x4 on the spinner and hit the 2x4
>with
>the hammer. You can either do it on end or on the edge.
>
>Paul Tegler      ptegler@cablespeed.com
>www.teglerizer.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Hanna, Mark" <mhanna@ball.com>
>To: "'Geoff Branch'" <branch@valinet.com>; "John Holliday"
><fprodget@yahoo.com>; "Kent J. Miller"
><Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>; "Spridgets"
><Spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:53 PM
>Subject: RE: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
>
>
>> Guys,
>> I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here. These plywood
>undo tools are
>> available from all of the usual suspects in sizes
>appropriate for Spridgets,
>> Big Healeys and Jaguars. They are supposed to be hit with
>an UNDO hammer to
>> loosen or tighten the spinner as required. All I want to
>do is hook my
>> torque wrench up to this plywood tool and tighten each
>spinner  to the same
>> torque value. My question was, and still is : What is the
>correct torque for
>> an UNDO ? Does anyone have an answer more accurate than "
>That feels about
>> right"
>> Mark
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Geoff Branch [SMTP:branch@valinet.com]
>> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 5:10 PM
>> > To: John Holliday; Kent J. Miller; Spridgets
>> > Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
>> >
>> > And as the former owner of a large architectural
>millwork company, I agree
>> > with
>> > John about the marine plywood.  However, if you want a
>really superior
>> > plywood,
>> > try (used to be called) "baltic birch".  About 15
>layers, all solid, in a
>> > 3/4"
>> > thick piece.  Expensive as the devil though.
>> >
>> > Geoff Branch  '74 Meejit
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: John Holliday <fprodget@yahoo.com>
>> > To: Kent J. Miller <Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>; Spridgets
>> > <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
>> > Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 10:37 AM
>> > Subject: Re: Fw: UNDO torque ;-) Plywood Spec
>> >
>> >
>> > > As a participant in the "we be tight" membership and
>> > > as an archtectural specification writer for the last
>> > > 22 years, I must respectfully state that marine
>> > > plywood is no stronger, and has no different glue than
>> > > than the other much more economical structural
>> > > "exterior" panels. To achieve marine grade it simply
>> > > is manufactured with no knotholes with the maximum
>> > > core-gap allowable of 1/8". It is made for use in the
>> > > construction of boat hulls where voids in the sheet
>> > > could be detrimental in a submersed situation.
>> > >
>> > > Frank's recommendation is more than adequate for this
>> > > application.
>> > >
>> > > John

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