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Re: bodywork questions <long answer> so delete if you dont want to read

To: "Charles F. Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>, "Kent J. Miller" <Bushwacker4@prodigy.net>, "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: bodywork questions <long answer> so delete if you dont want to read
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 01:19:39 -0600
References: <001701c1966d$de4a56a0$608bffd1@computer> <003801c19675$bf313e20$86cbd63f@oemcomputer>
If you want a really good product that is a filler / high build primer call
a company called Clausen Products (1-800 directory) and find a supplier near
you or have them to ship it to you.  The product is called Z-Chrome.  It is
a sprayable filler / primer, two part catalyzed.  When it is sprayed it is
dark gold in color with black flecks, when you block it out it turns light
yellow so automatically you see the low spots.  You first cut with 160 paper
on a long block then go to 360 grit or up and finish sand.
     It is an awesome product, sands easily, minimal pin holing, compatible
with various finishes, also carries a rust defender warranty. it is about
$70.00 per gallon with catalyst.  If anybody need any spec sheets I can
e-mail them.  Takes a little bigger gun tip than a finish gun but that's not
a problem, just buy a cheap primer gun.  A lot of your high dollar street
rod shops use it.  I checked one time how much build you could do with two
coats with out running into problems and you can build about a 1/16 inch in
two wet passes.  Takes 3 - 4 hrs to dry enough for sanding and when wet
sanded with 460 grit is smooth as a baby's ***.  let dry for 2 days to make
sure of shrinkage and come back with nitro-stan to fill any micro
imperfections and you end up with a beautiful finish.  All it takes is hours
of block sanding.
     I use a Sata MC-B for primer and a Sata NR 95 for the paint, both are
HVLP's.  Only problem now is getting someone reliable to look for the little
pin holes.  Painting is still easy, long as it is a dark color on a light
background :),  just have to make sure of where the hose is at all times.
Neat trick to save paint costs is to buy a tintable sealer.  That way right
before you spray the color, seal the whole car with a sealer that is almost
identical in color ( the paint supplier will tint it for you).  That way any
small cracks in between fenders and stuff match the outside if you happen to
get too light a coat on them and you also eliminate any possibility of
reactions between the primer coats and the top color coats, just a cheap
insurance.  And as far as I am concerned when it comes to paint, ya gets
what ya pays for.  Buy a cheap paint and that is just what you get.  When
you color sand out a "good quality" paint and apply the compounds and final
wax, that is when the paint job comes to life, and IT IS THE TIME WHEN ANY
SHORTCUTS ON YOUR PART LEAP OUT AND BITE YOU :-).  So take your time and pay
the money for good materials and the final result will knock your socks off.
Just my experience, no financial interests yadadyada....

Oh yea, almost forgot.. for the fender wells use 3M Rocker Shutz, it applies
easy, dries tough and is paintable, and for the seams use 3M  brushable
sealer, it is also paintable.

Leo

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