James Gruber wrote:
>
> 1) Heater switch is bad.
If the switch is going to be replaced, pry/pop it out from the front of the
dash.
A thin blade screwdriver to work the clips will pop it out. the clipa are on the
side of the switch. Once the front part is out, you can get the spring clip off
the back, it's easier to do them to try and put it in writting. Most times the
switch comes out with no problems but...sometimes it does fall apart. Do this
only
if you are going to replace it or else you know for sure it will break coming
out
just because you want to try and save it.
> 2) Horn not working -
The horn works via a ground, the spring contact on a 68 is on the signal stalk,
not on the s/wheel center button. A freshly painted steering rack often breaks
that ground, I run a new ground to the column/rack after I paint everything up
nice.
> 3) Temp gauge is not working. I knew that already. I
> need to order a new one and I'll ask any advice on
> taking the dash apart to get at the combo gauge.
> Trying just to get at it is virtually impossible from
> underneath.
Remove tach, stick your hand in the tach hole to get to the oil/temp gauge.
> 4) Tach does work but definitely wildly inaccurate.
There is an adjustable potentiometer inside the tach. It is best to remove the
housing, locate the white or yellow plastic adjusting wheel insdie the tach,
drill
a hole in the housing so you can stick a screwdriver in it to adjust the tach
while it's sort of hooked up but not yet installed in the dash. Also a bad
ground
will give funky tach readings. Again a new clean groundwire other than the one
to
the thumb screw works wonders.
> 5) Gas gauge does not appear to be working.
Try more than 1 gallon before tearing into it. But the sending unit may just be
stuck.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
A few Sprites
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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