Hi Jac,
Here are a few brief comments (well they started out to be brief) based on
our experience but give me a call and we can talk about details.
In a message dated 3/30/03 7:39:21 AM, jleclainche@cox.net writes:
<< Anybody on the list in the RV business? Or an experience RVer?.. I wonder
if
now would be a good time to buy an RV? I am toying with the idea of
purchasing an "A" class... Questions... >>
<<1. Ideal length/engine for an RV capable to tow 3,000 pounds + of trailer,
car, spare wheels, tools, etc... and have space for four large dogs
inside!... Best with a diesel engine, right?>>
LENGTH is a question of what type of floor plan you want and how you intend
to use the RV. Some are laid out for entertaining, others for living in full
time and some that combine the two. Also some have big beautiful baths which
look very nice, but when you think about how much of your time is spent in
the bath vs the living space you are giving up for the large bath then a
smaller bath may look better.
COMBINED LENGTH: Another consideration is what is the total length of the RV
plus trailer. With most Class A's being 30 ft minimum, your trailer
including the tongue most likely adds about 20 ft, so you are starting at 50
ft plus total length. You will rarely find an RV park with parking space
greater than 50 ft in length and we have come across quite a few with only 35
-40 ft parking spaces. In fairness I should mention that we tend to go to
some rather out of the way places. Also I do not like to disconnect my
trailer, particularly for just an overnight stay.
WEIGHT: Look at the dry weight the gross weight and the combined weight. The
difference in the dry and gross is how much cargo the coach is desigined to
carry, be sure to figure in the weight of fuel, propane and water. I just
saw a coach with 1500# payload which had a 100 gal fresh water tank. If you
filled the water tank, 800#, you only had 700# for evrything else. Of course
you would only fill the water tank if you were planning two weeks boondocking
in the desert but still. The difference between the gross weight and the
combined weight tells you what the unit is designed to tow. Be sure the tow
hitch is rated to take that load.
TRAILER: If you are using one of your trailers I would suggest loading it up
and getting it weighed at a truck scale. You may be estimating the weight on
the light side. Ours always weighs more than what we figure on paper.
ENGINES: Diesels have more torque, get better mileage, make more noise and
cost many more $$$$$. Even at todays prices the cost difference will buy a
lot of gas. I have no experience with diesels so do not know how the
maintenance costs compare. For the most part diesels are only in the top $$$
RV's, about $100K and up. If this is the price range that you are
considering then go for it.
<<2. Are there any makes better than others, or/and are there variations in
quality between models?>>
Absolutely. Look for quality of construction. Is the coach framework wood
(booo), steel or aluminum. What kind of insulation does it have and how
thick. Some newer RV have real thermo pane windows. Look inside the
cabinets. Are they finished or will you get Splinters every time you go to
get something. Where are the holding tanks located. A lower location gets
the coach CG lower.
<<3. Would a model with "slides" keep it value better or worse than a "non
slider"?>>
In my opion slideouts do not make it better or worse. The slide out will
increase the floor space when parked but can make it a bit difficult to get
to the bath room or kitchen when you just make a quick stop on the road.
There were some problems with slidouts when they first came out - 5 to 6
years ago I think.
<<4. Best transmission? I assume they will all be automatic.>>
Yes, but most likely you will be limited to what the particular mfg uses
unless you get into the $200K and up range.
<<5. Extended warrantee desirable?>>
If you can get it for free or next to free fine otherwise probably not.
<<6. Best value - new or used?>>
Used, RV's take a huge loss in value the first year. A unit that is one to
five years old should be the best deal. After 10 years expect to have major
maintaince and appliance replacement expenses. Check your local library and
see if they keep a copy of Kelly's Blue Book for RV's, it should be in the
reference section. I have not found one RV dealer who will acknowledge the
existance of this book but it is your best guide to price. When we found a
coach we liked we would get Kelly's and not only look at the current price
but how the price changed by year. It appeared that the better quailty RV's
prices would flatten out some after three years as where others just
continued to go in the toilet.
<<7. How best negotiate the price? Is there a big mark up when new, or are the
dealers working with thin margins?>>
I think it is worse than buying a car, we ended up getting ours from a
private party.
<<I never had an RV- and only drove a C class once... so any advice will be
welcome. Please feel free to take this off-list due to the non-Sprite
subject 8-)
>>
BIG CONSIDERATION !!!!!!! TO KEEP AN RV IN GOOD SHAPE YOU NEED TO OPERATE IT
AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH. TO GET YOUR MONEY'S WORTH OUT OF AN RV YOU NEED TO GO
OUT AT LEAST ONE WEEKEND A MONTH.
Did not mean this to be so long but there are a lot of things to consider
when selecting an RV. We have a good book, but it is loaned right now.
Authors are Bill and Jan Moeller and the title is the highly creative Buying
an RV. I'll see if my friend is about done with it or I can act as your
purchasing agent at CampingWorld, which is in Vista. Or it might be on
Amazon Books.
Annice & Bob
1960 Bugeye (Mk. IV in disguise) "The Sprite"
1966 Sprite Mk. III (Still in Boxes) "Trevor"
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