David,
If you are referring to the long bolt that connects at the end of the arm
to the trunnion, there is a lock bolt that prevents the trunnion from
turning. Remove the nut from the trunnion and then remove the 7/16 lock
bolt at the end. It may require a few taps with a rubber mallet to break
free or if the original metal sleeved bushing are rusted to the fulcrum,
you may need to remove the nut from the king ping an remove the trunion.
Don't lose the shim washers and bronce washer if you remove the trunnion!
Get new bushings for thrunnion before you behin this job too.
3 long bolts hold the shock the the frame.
You can probably have one of the speedo shops (Palo Also Speedo or
Nisonger) reface an electric tach with on original style tach face.
Gerard
>
>Repair issues:
>
>I started to change the front shocks, but was stuck to the fulcrum pin.
>Seemed like I had two choices, get out the sawzall or the torch (right after
>I double the fire insurance policy). Suggestions?
>
>The brake light switch is stuck on. Can this be removed from the connector,
>and cleaned up? This appears to a "later" model with the small electrical
>connectors. An interesting splice was made on the Brand New Harness. Geez
>again.
>
>I need weather stripping for the doors, and back of the bonnet. Anyone know
>of good source? And no I am not going to sink another $13,000 in to this
>thing.
>
>Any chance of dying the vinyl seats (from Maroon) to black?
>
>Anyone have a pair of bonnet holding stays, they will sell for a reasonable
>price?
>
>The tach in place is a later model with the orange and red segments. Is there
>anyway to get a plain black electric tach?
>
>
>David Oliner
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