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Re: Color Sanding/buffing

To: "John D'Agostino" <john.dagostino@comcast.net>, "Larry Miller" <millerls@ado13.com>
Subject: Re: Color Sanding/buffing
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 19:42:54 -0500
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
References: <002501c42e0e$49b22cd0$6818a8c0@PSIMONT4> <00a201c42e11$fff89760$01943d18@nikka> <003301c42e13$04e4b410$6818a8c0@PSIMONT4> <00de01c42e39$4ebf25e0$01943d18@nikka>
Color sanding is but the first step of many...  I use 1200 and then 2000
micro fine paper to get started... then I run an air powered buffer with a
machine polishing compound... working my way to a finishing compound and
then a quality wax like " Yellow Wax " from Mequires...

The key is to polishing is to understand it is messy... your goal here is to
knock down the high points to be level with the low points in the paint...
thereby giving you a Level surface to reflect light ( Read Gloss )  Once a
paint is polished it needs the protection offered by the wax's oil...

Go to your local auto paint supplier and buy a complete line of products
that are produced to work in conjunction with each other... otherwise
someone's finsihing compound could be more aggressive then someone else's
polish.....

I really like my air powered buffer... it's air line is stiffer then the
electrical cords I used to deal with and it's very light wieght... which has
lots of merit...

as for sharp body lines you might want to put some masking tape on them...
like the fender beads so you don't burn through them.... never polish an
edge.... and while your working towards an edge work from the surface to off
the surface rather then spinning into it.... ( quickest way to burn a paint
job  is to catch the edge with the buffer spinning into it...)

Keith






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