Bill,
Maybe someone else on the list can confirm this, I'm not sure if the
tach electronics is the same as the Healey BJ8, but I fixed my BJ8 for
$1. It was reading 2000 higer than actual. There's a capacitor inside
that goes bad and replacing it fixed it. Look at Jim Werner's web pages
for "BJ8 Tach Reads High", his description was good enough for me to
follow. Could be worth a try,
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Dave & Bobbie
1960 Bugeye "Little Bits" (See link below)
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2z49v/bugeye.htm
1960 AH3000 "Healey Bits"
1967 AH3000 "Not in Bits"
Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix (See link below)
http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
Bill L wrote:
>Hello spridgets,
>
> time to ask the collective wisdom and experience of "the list".
>
> my tach (positive ground) works, kinda. it is heat senstive,
> that being, on a hot day and the car warmed up the reading will
> show too many "r's" for a given speed, if the thing was
> calibrated on a, say, 60 degree day. (i have pertronix ignition,
> but don't know if that affected by the heat or just the tach
> itself.. .. i am calibrating with a an old LAFAYETTE dwell tach,
> (complete with instructions and setting for both positive
> ground, AND 4 cylinder operation. ... i have to assume that IT
> at least IS accurate, and the readings are confirmed with
> milepost timings, vs rpm. i have tried, i think 3 different
> tachs, and this one is the best of the lot, so far.
>
> now the questions....
>
> minimania has original "looking" tachs, with new VDO innards,
> but they are negative ground only. ..... $215.
>
> nisonger will rebuild my present unit and calibrate for
> pertronix .... $115.
>
> the only thing keeping me, so far, from converting to NEG ground
> has been the tach, i think. is that the ONLY thing that has to
> be changed besides the generator polarization? ...
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