spridgets
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RE: Midget Wheels & Carburetor

To: <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Midget Wheels & Carburetor
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 12:40:08 -0600
Thread-index: AcSlYnKGTPphoJE6RYWdMVFkp80oOQAAV8WAAAAY3FAAO8yaEA==
Kurtis

Nope ... that did not seem to work.  One thing I did note is that sometimes,
immediately after a brief run on the highway, the idle will start at 2000
and back down to the 1200 to 800 range.  I think I'll try fiddling with that
deceleration valve again.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From Kurtis [mailto:kurtisj at cox-internet.com] 
Sent: September 28, 2004 7:52 AM
To: Bob; spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Midget Wheels & Carburetor

Bob,

I don't really know much about the throttle setup on the later MGs , but I
know that I had a very similar problem with my TR4.  It turned out to be
worn return spring on the gas pedal/throttle assembly.  Things weren't
always returning to the same place every time.  When it idles too high, have
you tried reaching under the gas pedal with your toe and lifting it up?

Kurtis J.

> Carb - A while back I sent a post on the trouble I was having with the
carb
> on our '75 - I could not get the carb adjusted down enough to get a low
> enough idle.  After rebuilding the carbs (they really didn't need it as it
> turned out), the idle can now be down in the proper range - the problem
> seemed to be the carb bypass valve adjustment.  However, now I cannot get
a
> consistent idle - sometimes it idles right on, sometimes too high (almost
> 2000 rpm), and sometimes so slow it stalls - this is all with the engine
> warm and on the same drive.  There does not seem to be any leaks in the
> manifold.  Any suggestions at what I should look at next (or re-look at
> again?).  The car is a fairly stock Canadian car, but has a non-electronic
> distributor and the air pump is gone.

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