Well I used the dwell/tach on the 1275 and the points were right on at 62.
Using the spec of 60 +/- 3. I was surprised and pleased. I traded the
timing light for another with the advance dial. Set it to 13 BTDC at 1000
rpm give or take, my book called for 22 degrees but others advised to use
11-13 so thats what I used. I then adjusted the idle and its like a new
car.
Thanks to everyone for the help. My crank pulley timing marks are poor.
Looks like a PO just scratched a line on it. It has no notch or other mark
except a dimple that seems to be 180 opposite the timing mark. Its running
well so I'll let it be. Is it a big deal to change over to a pulley with
appropriate marks for the actual advance needed on a 1275?
Now that I accomplished that I think its time for an electronic ignition. I
would also like to keep a spare dizzy set up and in the boot for a quick
change if needed. Anyone have a good spare they would like to sell?
The formerly white bugeye is getting painted now. I plan to post some pics
when I finally figure out my MS FrontPage software.
Phil
Phil Nase
'60 Bugeyes
http://home.ptd.net/~nase
>I need help setting dwell and timing on my 1275 engine please. I started a
>tune up before the Valentines' rallye by replacing the points, condenser
>and rotor. I also reset the idle speed, mixture and balanced the carbs.
>Car ran well except the idle tends to get fast after the engine is hot.
>However my problem is that at the rally the engine temps were at or near
>212 degrees most of the time. Granted the weather was high air and humidy
>but I had never seen the coolant temps so high.
>
> I want to set dwell and also time the ignition. My book says distributor
> cam closed is 60 degrees and ignition timing 22 degrees at 1000 rpm. Does
> this sound accurate and how do I set the timing to that reference? Thanks
> everyone I'm sure this is basic stuff for most all of you but I'm trying
> to learn as these things come up. I'm armed and ready with my dwell/tach
> and timing light. I see a scale on the block with hash marks but with the
> fan and oil separator etc. its tough to tell what the marks are.
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