On Jan 23, 2006, at 5:41 PM, Michael D Myers wrote:
> In case you want the tapered roller conversion, Timken lists the part
> numbers
> on their automotive application web site as:
> 30205M Inner
> 30303 Outer
>
> These are more sensitive to proper preload than the ball bearings.
Just a note, particularly for those who may not have done front wheel
bearings. On disassembly pay particular attention to how the
bearings are oriented. There is a "thrust" side which was always
marked on the bearings of years ago but may not be marked on current
bearings. Look carefully so you will be sure to install the new ones
correctly. If you put them in the wrong way the wheel will separate
from the car, most likely at the most inopportune time.
The ball bearing configuration has a space between the bearings and
in this configuration there is no pre-load per say, just tighten them
down hard and find the nearest keyway for the cotter pin. Some folks
on the list have found the spacer is not the right length an they
have to make adjustments. It seems odd that they would be hand
matched to a particular axle but there are stranger things with our
cars. I have never had to do this so can offer no other comment.
I have tried some roller bearings. The first set was listed for the
car but there was no way they would work. The Timken numbers list by
Mike are suppose to work, I have not used them so can not say for
certain. But the center spacer is left out so that they can be
preloaded. Also I have heard that the washer under the castle nut
has to be thinner.
just two bits
Bob Kitterer
1960 Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
1966 Sprite Mk III (Trevor, in boxes)
2000 Miata Special Edition
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