youse guys are soooo cruel!
no one mentioned to take extreme care at the "T" beam seams on fender tops
or areas like fender / trunk / hood & doors whereit's real easy to burn
right through the paint in the blink of an eye!
or the old masking tape on the edges to protect edges when doing any
agressive "area" buffing..........
chuck.
"OH , i see , never mind"(the late gilda radner as emily litella)
> [Original Message]
> From: <john.dagostino@comcast.net>
> To: <lindalnhvt@nhvt.net>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/7/2006 9:54:47 AM
> Subject: post-paint buffing
>
> Hi.
> Frank pretty much summed it up on buffing. I'm no expert, but I would
only add that when buffing, a slow buffing speed is better. I used to think
any old buffer was ok, then I splurged and bought a Makita, wow big
difference, smooth, quiet and infinite speed control, you can actually
watch the scratches disappear!
> There are a ton of compounds, pads and methods, some require different
pads using the same compound, some use different compounds and pads, it can
be a chore choosing what to use. I stick with 3M Perfect-It III, wool pads
for buffing, foam for swirl removing and polishing. Imperial hand glaze for
final polish by hand.
> The 3M web site has some good demo videos if you are interested.
> Buffing is a pain in the keyster, but experiment a bit, you'll have it in
no time.
>
> Good luck,
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