Before I had my stud remover I used to use a small pipe wrench to remove tight
studs, worked OK
BillM
> From: 60bugeye@cebridge.net
> To: tncarnut1@yahoo.com
> Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 20:42:02 -0500
> CC: spridgets@autox.team.net; PAsgeirsson@att.net
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Wax Trick didn't work . . .
>
> Get a stud remover. Proto makes one. Has a cam type action which rotates
> inside a grooved hole (which the stud or bolt fits thru) and the other end
> takes a ratchet on it. If you cant find one or just need to borrow one I
> would be willing to send you mine in the mail and you can return it as soon
> as you get the stud out.
>
> Leo
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Booker" <tncarnut1@yahoo.com>
> To: "Kirk Hargreaves" <khargreaves2@gmail.com>; "Lester"
> <oldsaabguy@comcast.net>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "Paul Asgeirsson" <PAsgeirsson@att.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 7:46 PM
> Subject: [Spridgets] Wax Trick didn't work . . .
>
>
> > --- On Mon, 6/29/09, Lester <oldsaabguy@comcast.net> wrote: Idea is to
> > heat
> > the are to warm enough for wax to melt and wick in.
> >
> > OK, the garage has a nice Vanilla smell now, but the stud is still there.
> > I
> > can see how it would work in a lot of instances, but this seems to be too
> > close a tolerance to happen in this case.
> >
> > I think my main problem is getting a grip on the now-stripped stud. My
> > Vice
> > Grips tend to fall into two categories: The first group are so large that
> > the
> > jaws are angled too steeply to grip at this small diameter. The second
> > smaller group are good for getting on the stud, but the teeth are too
> > small to
> > dig in effectively and the handles are too short to get any torque if I
> > did
> > get them gripped... And I cant get enough squeeze on the non-locking
> > pliers
> > to do anything except further polish the stud.
> >
> > I really don't trust my ability to cut it off and drill it out by hand.
> >
> > More ideas?
> >
> > - David Booker
> >
> >
> >
> >
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