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Re: [Spridgets] Blinker

To: "Michael Rowe" <mdrowe@optonline.net>, "SPRIDGETS"
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Blinker
From: "Mark" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 13:37:56 -0500
Michael,

Try a Stant/Tridon 550 flasher, put the buzzer from the lamp output terminal 
"P" to ground. Not sure what you mean by parallel, if you have it from the 
"B" terminal to the "L" it will try to source the voltage to the lamps when 
the flasher is open but the signals on. That would burn out the buzzer. 
BTW, the Lucas "B" terminal is the same as the "X" terminal on the Stant 550 
the "L" and "P" terminals are labeled the same on both.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Rowe" <mdrowe@optonline.net>
To: "SPRIDGETS" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:19 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] Blinker


My turn signal return does not work, so I put in a tiny Radio Shack buzzer 
in parallel across the terminals of the flasher can.  This worked fine for a 
month or so, with the buzzer sounding when the flasher was open, and quiet 
when the flasher was closed (no potential).  Then the flasher stopped 
opening, and several new flasher cans lasted shorter intervals, one of them 
only one day.  I have determined that the current/voltage is enough to power 
the flasher alone or the buzzer alone, but not both.  With the buzzer 
attached, the flasher does not heat enough to open, and the buzzer does not 
get enough current to make noise.

I really don't understand how a buzzer 1/2" in diameter with really fine 
wires can steal enough power to prevent the flasher from heating. I measure 
13v at the can.  Any thoughts?

Michael Rowe
'74 Midget
'60 Sprite kit
Long Island, NY
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