Thanks all for the guidance. I made a mistake in my original post - my clutch
slave is actually 7/8" - not 3/4". So my master and slave are not the same.
But based on what people have said - it sounds like I can make it work if I'm
getting 3/4" travel at the slave. And I should take up some of the free play
prior to engagement at the push rod at the master, but be careful to not
adjust too far in either direction.
Feel free to advise further if you have
something!
Regards,
Joe
--- On Fri, 1/1/10, Frank <spritenut@comcast.net>
wrote:
> From: Frank <spritenut@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets]
Master-slave cylinder
> To: "Joe Lansing" <kidjoevid@yahoo.com>
> Cc:
"Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 9:25
PM
> Joe Lansing wrote:
> > Can somebody answer my question about master-slave
> cylinders without laughing too loudly?
> > I have a 62 with a 3/4 bore
master cylinder. I put a
> Rivergate conversion in with a 3/4 bore slave
cylinder. I'm
> only getting about 1/2" to 3/4" of travel in the slave. Do I
>
need to bore my master clutch cyl to 7/8"?
> >
> >
> 3/4 master and 3/4
slave works fine on the Nissan
> slave-Rivergate set up. That is what I have.
> You tried the slave adjustment, maybe the brake and clutch
> master rods
were mixed up when it was rebuilt. Happens all
> the time.
> Although each rod
is the same length, they are adjusted
> differently. The master rod can be
made longer or shorter by
> loosening the lock nut and turning the rod.
> This
may help. Again, too long a master rod will not let
> the fluid return thru
the bleed back hole, too short and
> there is not enough travel to work the
slave.
>
> -- Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> My own Fleet of Sprites
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