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Re: Heat Shield??

To: Anita & Jim Barrett <anitabrt@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Shield??
From: Allan Connell <alcon@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 12:23:19 -0700
>Allen,
>        On my Tiger II the clutch slave cylinder had an adjustable
>length push rod.  Could be that the fingers on your clutch
>pressure plate are worn down and you need a longer push
>rod to make up for the slop.  Try adjusting the length by a
>turn or two.  If you truly have a heat problem then I would

Jim, 

Thanks for your reply and I think you are right about the
adjustment....after some discussion at a recent club meeting with Chris
Nicholas it seems I may be wrong about the heat issue, at least from the
standpoint of the clutch slave.  What he pointed out is that when the
clutch gets hot, it expands somewhat and makes it difficult to get into
reverse because there is not enought fluid to eject the push-pin far enough
out to completely disengage.  This makes a great deal of sense to me, most
especially when I consider the PO informed me that he replaced the clutch
with a McLeod (sp?) racing clutch....

And so it goes.....what Chris further offered that makes sense is to
increase the diameter of the clutch MASTER to a 3/4" Girling (apparently
available at some off road shops) with the standard 5/8".  Chris said that
it solved his problem completely but did make his clutch a little harder to
push in and release.  Just more options to consider.

Thanks again for your input.  With your suggestions and others at least I
have some alternatives to consider.........and will probably only use
header wrap tape to solve cockpit heat problems.  

Regards,

Allan 
B9472373

> assume that the fluid is expanding and you would tend to
>release the clutch more, not less.  If you have water in the
>fluid then boiling will cause a soft clutch; however this 
>normally only happens at above 212 degrees.  Are you
>truly getting that hot?  On my Tiger I have huge headers
>that leave little room for the speedometer cable.   The inside
>of the cable (plastic) melted once.  I solved this problem
>with a 1/4" layer of fiberglass (woven kind for boat repairs)
>and covered the fiberglass with several layers of aluminum 
>foil. Used hose clamps to secure the foil around the cable.
>You could do a similar thing on your clutch slave cylinder. 
> If you have an old flexable hose going to the cylinder then
> maby that is the problem as well.
>      I had a clutch cylinder split on the side when I installed 
>a Hays heavy duty clutch that took a huge effort to disengauge.  
>    On my Tiger II 351C I use a mechnical linkage that
>piviots at the regular Ford piviot ball near the rear of the
>motor.  Note that I also moved the firewall back 6" to
>clear the motor and to allow the use of the mechnical 
>clutch linkage.  Mechnical linkage does not fit a un-modified
>Tiger.
>Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
>
>
>

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