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Re: Under Hood Heat

To: Gary A Winblad <gary_winblad@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Under Hood Heat
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 08:55:44 +0100

Gary A Winblad wrote:

   Well, bigger brakes is on MY list of wants.. but not top priority.
   Still need to deal with the poor proportioning due to the rear
   disks...

   Gary

Gary,

Never one to shirk the call of the truly needy, I hear you load and clear.
Another of the marvelous Tiger (Alpine) "features" is the lack of a
proportioning valve.  Disc brakes have a need for very high pressures, so the
system is designed to provide it.  A servo is supplied to help
this along.  Trouble is, the drum brakes do not need much pressure, and a
self-energizing anyway.

When disc brakes first came out they were applied to the front wheels only,
where 80% of your braking takes place anyway due to weight
transfer.  The rears were left as drums.  My '65 Mustang GT convertible (the one
I sold to buy the Tiger) came stock with a proportioning
valve to reduce the pressure to the rear drums.  Later designs (2 years) had
dual master cylinders, dividing fronts and rears, for safety sake.
They also changed the pressure each section provided.  Since the Mustang is a
popular restoration, your answer is at hand.  More than one
company, Stainless Steel Brake being the priciest, make adjustable proportioning
valves to reduce the rear drum pressure.  They cost about
$35 to $65, and are available at most classic Mustang restoration houses.  Your
only problem is converting the fittings  to double flare for the valve.  This is
not a big deal, as most auto parts stores sell flaring tools with accessory
double flaring kits.  Not the easiest to operate, and you'd be better off having
someone double flare it for you.

Locate a convenient location for mounting in the rear brake line.  Take the
original English double-bubble flare tube and have it cut and bent
(if necessary for positioning) to fit the inlet and outlet with double flares.
These are adjustable units (the originals were not) and need to be accessed to
rotate the knob until both brakes act appropriately.  The goal is to get the
maximum front disc pressure without locking the rear wheels.

You'll have lot's of fun doing "skid tests" with these.  Don't expect the
"anti-skid" new car performance, as the balance requirements change with wet/icy
roads, but it can't be worse than you've got now.

See, a simple solution for a change.

I'm sending this to the other  Tigers, on the off-chance they may have pushed
hard on their brakes. My theorem is the same as Monsieur. Bugatti.  He was asked
why his cars were so difficult to stop (cable/rod brakes, good but required a
BIG leg).  He is said to have replied, " Madam, I build my cars to go, not to
stop!"

Steve

Steve Laifman         < One first kiss,       >
B9472289              < one first love, and   >
                      < one first win, is all >
                      < you get in this life. >


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