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Odds and Ends- Engine critique

To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Odds and Ends- Engine critique
From: FrizBMG@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 00:03:35 EDT
 Hi Tigers
 I have finally finished the weekend goal of installing the engine and trans
back ino my Tiger.Took less than 3 hours to install engine and trans thru the
bottom.With headers.And re-install the front end assembly.I listened to some
of the advice I had recieved from list posters.Some things I picked up from
the Tiger website(s),and some of it I adapted from there.I am going to share
what worked and why.
 I purchased a kinda generic engine dolly at a ford swap meet.Musta been for a
Big-block,the bolt holes on the stand front did not line up with anything.The
only bolt I could attach it with was the top starter bolt,so I ran a long bolt
out of the backside to attach to the stand.I let gravity do the rest.the front
stand part fit in between the forward and middle freeze plugs.The engine W/O
carb,crank pulley and waterpump were attached to the clutch and trans and
supported by the dolly.
  The car was on Jackstands all the way around.I raised the car further by
removing the topmost  bolt for the support strut that attaches on the wheel
well top and using a longer bolt so I could attach  the (rented )engine hoist
chain directly to the car.It worked perfectly! So did the dolly.With the
engine more or less in place let the car back down on the jackstands.Attached
Chain to the engine(at a diagonal across the intake manifold,I used a I/2"
longer bolt in  front and back ) to remove the dolly. Jacked tranny tailshaft
up and installed crossmember piece(but no rubber mount) Installed Headers
loosely,then added mounting brackets and engine mount rubber biscuits.
 It took maybe a half an hour to line up the mounting brackets w/the frame
holes and clear the headers of contact points. No hammer was needed,only the
correct soliloqy of choice profanities.The some what lower trans tailshaft
resting directly on the crossmember gave me the additional clearance(under the
firewall) to remove the longer-than stock manifold bolt I had attached the
lift chain to.
 To re-install the front end I used a variation of the Mark Olsen rope
technique(outlined on his website).With the engine in place  and the chain
removed,My friend Jeff and I turned our attention to the front end.I ducttaped
the aluminum front end spacers to the Front end assy.After an abortive attempt
at balancing the front end(With tires) on a jack with us balancing it ,I broke
out some rope.Sisal rope.Not real heavy stuff, shy of a 1/2" thick(maybe less
),I ducttaped a nylon wire tie to the one end of it after snipping off the
sqaure end.I then used the nylon as a guide to pull the bigger rope
thru.Started up under the crossmember at the aft hole ,thru the
crossmember,thru the corresponding frame hole(from the bottom),up over the
engine and down the aft holes on the other side of the frame and corresponding
holes of the crossmember.Then with the rope run thru I got my two largest 1/2"
drive  sockets that I wasnt using(making sure that they were larger than the
pass-thru holes for the bolts that secure the front end to the frame) and ran
the rope thru that and tied it off in several knots and wrapped several layers
of ducttape aound that,so that the rope wouldnt come loose.I then brought the
hoist over and measured out how much slack I would need to attach the hoist to
the rope before"attaching" the other socket to the rope end.Using the
hoist(with an assist from the floorjack to take some of the strain off of the
rope.The rope was a "found" item-It was in the basement when we moved here and
I dont know what strength it was rated at) the front end assembly went up with
a little coaxing.I wish I would have known about rotating it forward a little
do the back  of the upper control arm would clear the clear the 
outward curl of the frame at the topmost point of the inner wheelwell/frame
area.I lost 10-15 minutes in "Uh-duh mode" trying to figure out why what came
out  wont go back in.If anything it should be easier with the 20-30 lbs of
grease and road crap cleaned off at the car wash with high pressure soap.
After lowering and rocking the front end foward,everything lined up perfectly.
  Towards the end of the adventure in the garage the heat caught up with me.I
had been wearing black coveralls during the heavy work and drinking plenty of
pepsi and later some beer.No water.90 degrees air temp and probably hotter
where I was at.Then the cramps came from dehydration.First the legs ,then the
back.My friend Jeff continues to finish the job because I cant.Now a small
problem. Jeff found out why I had ducttaped the long bolt for the crossmember
to the socket,and the socket to the extension(I found out previously when I
took the thing apart-the bolt I lost in there fell out when we moved the front
end to install it) not once but twice!Is there an easy (ier) way to get bolts
out of the crossmember?Are new (or old used) replacement bolts available from
someone?
 Well,that is the story of my friday.
Further reports as progress is made.
I have come to the realization that I will probably have this finished just in
time to put it up for the winter.
 I read in my mail today from the list about a recomendation for Macs Antique
Auto parts-of NewYork.I have a Macs catalogue and that is all well and good.My
own "special" old ford parts place is called K.A.R. (Mustang) .They are a
chain of about 20-25 shops scattered throughout the nation.There is one here
in Columbus that I have gone to to get oddball stuff they have in stock-like
late 260 early 289 dipstick tubes.they also carry a full range of proper bolts
and speedo gears and other parts small and large that would be a real pain to
find in a salvage yard. 
Goodnight and happy Tiggering
Tony
PS.Do the front end shims(the aluminum spacers)between the crossmember and the
frame get installed large side facing front?
 
 

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