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Stu,
Regarding your radiator questions, I am forwarding to you a previous
message containing the information requested, and a bit more. Use what
you need.
Since this question keeps recurring, I have included a list
distribution.
Good Luck,
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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Message-ID: <359E03DF.FFB4088B@Flash.Net>
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 11:28:54 +0100
From: Steve Laifman <Laifman@Flash.Net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 (Macintosh; U; PPC)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Carmods@aol.com
CC: dbinkley@argotech.com, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Overheating
References: <39838069.359e3b58@aol.com>
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Carmods@aol.com wrote:
Maybe some of you have comments to add in the area of cooling, or would like
to elaborate on these basic areas, or would like to point out something I've
over looked or erred in.
John Logan
Not overlooked, but some details specifications may be of help.
FIRST NOTE: If your problem is a scaled up block, bad pump, too many mods for
more HP, bad hoses, leaks, or any other functional
deficiency, all these enhancements won't fix a broken system. Check these
FIRST.
1) 6 Blade Ford fan (made in Canada) cut down about 3/8" off tips, uniformly to
keep balance and clear rack. Understand a Volvo fan (unsure model/year) is a
bolt in.
2) Complete shroud around fan in FRONT of rack.
3) After flushing engine of loose scale, add external brass Gano 1 3/4 filter
(Mustang supplier). This one has ridges to hold hose on.
Clean filter elements (brass screen traps) frequently (1,000 to 2,000 miles)
until sure accumulation rate wont clog filter.
4) Verify pressure cap function with tester
5) Add overflow and recovery system between tank and radiator. Interdynamics,
Brooklyn NY 11232 Model MCR-3 "Narrow Container"
1 1/2 Qt. Capacity fits right in, at a slight angle, and can be filled from
under the hood easily. Available cheap at most big parts stores.
Recovery cap must be used on expansion tank.
6) Extend horns by added 2 inch extension with 1/4" grommet for wires through
new air block-off plate. I have made copies of the Rootes
option, and they can be pop-riveted, screwed, or double-sticky tape mounted.
MIGHT CONSIDER LIMITED PRODUCTION, with powder-coat finish, of extension (steel)
and block-off (aluminum) sets if there is
enough interest. LET ME KNOW.
7) Replace orignal, or older design 4 row, with new high density, high
performance radiator. Same thickness as original 3 row, and requires
no mods of tanks. Modine H 69 H Cross flow. 18 1/2 W x 15 1/2 high. Four
parallel rows of tubes, 36 tubes/row, each 3/8 inch deep by
0.080 wide externally. 14 fins/per inch fin density. This is about $300, built
by radiator shop, and well worth it.
7A) Some like aluminum 2 row radiators. They work well, but are much thicker
than stock and need a lot of special shroud fitting, or
fabrication. Cost about $100 MORE. Cullen Bennet uses one in Arizona - with
air conditioning!
8) Use 180 F premium thermostat. Engine likes that temp, minimum. Drill 1/8
inch hole through plate.
9) For bumper-to-bumper traffic, use Scotts Manufacturing Co., Valencia CA .
(800) 544-5596, ask for Gary Wilson. American made
electric fan. Straight blade, shrouded, Permanent Magnet motor "Terminator 13"
size pusher. Use 40 amp relay, relay base (if desired), 20
amp weatherproof fuse holder. Cost about $120 + any applicable tax and
shipping. Well made and fits. Has brass insert "feet" top and
bottom. Installed with pop-rivets to top of interior body in front of radiator,
and on 10" aluminum angle bolted to "crank" box. Make sure
close enough to radiator to allow insulation foam to seal. May need to
"flatten" rear lip of "crank" box. I used CAT trunk rubber gasket
(DON'T use for trunk, there is no steel core) and pop-riveted it to the outer
rim of shroud, then filled in rest with foam insulation. Seal is
REQUIRED. Did not use thermostat, but manual switch. Wire control switch
through relay with fuse on high current (12 amp) fan side.
10) Am considering last design deficiency of Tiger, lower valance holes do not
guide air through radiator. A simple aluminum sheet, bent to
fit between jack horns and connect lower lip of valance or valance holes to
lower edge of radiator is easy enough with 0 temper aluminum
sheet that can be bent by fingers. Use foam tape for edge seal, so that metal
doesn't rub
11) LAT hood lets hot air out.
12) Edelbrock makes an excellent aluminum Hi-Po water pump, but expensive. Hub
may neeed slight adjusting. Sunbeam Specialties sells new aftermarket aluminum
that has correct hub (I think).
IF ALL THIS DOESN'T WORK, PUT THE ALPINE ENGINE BACK IN, OR SEE RAMON (Where
there is no such thing as hot running Tigers, if nothing is broke)
{9->
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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