Well, the last time I checked, Hot tanking (Hot Special Solvent bath at
automotive machine shops) will eat aluminum. Cold Tanking (different
solution, similar to carb cleaner but stronger) as it is called, works very
well for aluminum. Some bead blasting may still be required if the powder
coating was realy well done. WARNING. Use ONLY Plastic beads for the
blasting. They will not damage te aluminum, and are far easier to remove in
the final blow out/ wash out cleaning procudes when you are done. Glass
beads are harder than the cast aluminum, and they can and WILL damage any
aluminum surface they are blasted on. Use ONLY plastic beads....Takes
longer = No Damage !!!
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
To: Carmods@aol.com <Carmods@aol.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 8:21 AM
Subject: Re:Paint Removal
>John,
>
>One of the main virtues of "Powder" Coating is its durability. The powder
>is sprayed on and then baked to form a pretty impervious coating; no
>solvent involved. I'd call you local powder coating service and ask their
>advice as to how best to remove. My guess will be bead blasting. If you do,
>don't bead blast the inside of the covers; and in any case, clean them
>scrupulously afterward to remove ALL media from the surfaces, cracks, and
>crannies. Maybe hot-tanking afterward would be a good idea (or put them in
>your automatic dishwasher?)
>
>Good luck,
>
>Bob
>
>At 09:58 AM 12/10/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>I want to strip the paint off some aluminum valve covers that have been
power
>>coated.Does anyone know of a solvant that would work. I've tried several
>>common paint removers and lacquer thinner but nothing works.
>> John Logan
>>
>Robert L. Palmer
>Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
>rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
>rpalmer@cts.com
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