tigers
[Top] [All Lists]

RE: FAQ contents - cooling - LONG.

To: "'Gordon Hall'" <hallg@iafrica.com>, Tiger Group <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: FAQ contents - cooling - LONG.
From: Theo Smit <TSmit@novatel.ca>
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:59:03 -0700
Hi Gordon, and Listers,

Here's a brief summary of my adventures in cooling, along with condensed info
from the list. You may find some of my earlier postings on Mark Olson's web
site's List archive page.

1. Stock Cooling System.
The stock cooling system includes a three-row radiator core, an engine-driven
four-blade fan with shroud, and a heater core. I believe Norm's book describes
the SA-built cars as being equipped with an electric radiator fan as well, but
since your car is not one of those, you might want to go searching for an
appropriate PUSHER fan. It's important to get a fan that is configured as a
pusher (or else one that's reversible) because fan blades work much better when
they are oriented in the proper direction (convex side forward).

Before you start modifying the cooling system it is a good idea to get the
system flushed using the appropriate (industrial) cleaning agents, to remove
loose and congealed crud from the engine block and radiator tanks. If there are
any blockages in the radiator or heater core tubes, these will not be cured by
any amount of flushing, and the only recourse is to get the rad and/or heater
recored (see below).

It is essential to use a thermostat to provide a little bit of upstream pressure
for the water pump and to regulate the flow through the rad. I drilled a 'bleed
hole' of 1/8" diameter in mine. If you are confident of the condition of your
cooling system in general, put on a high-pressure (16 psi) rad cap.

2. Upgrades and Modifications.
A large number of Tiger owners have replaced the three-row rad with a four-row
core, using the original tanks. Additional cooling efficiency can be obtained by
specifying a high-efficiency core, which has more fins, and the tubes are spaced
more closely (on 7/16" or 3/8" pitch, rather than 1/2"). It is important that
the radiator shop remount the tanks on the L-brackets such that the amount of
room taken up in front of the mounts is the same, i.e. such that the extra
thickness of the radiator projects rearwards. On mine, the radiator rear surface
is within 1/2" of the engine fan. The Modine core H69H has been mentioned on the
list by several Listers (not Brian) but when I went to get my rad done, the rad
shop denied all knowledge of such a part number, and that it certainly didn't
fit in with Modine's regular part numbering scheme. The part they supplied me
certainly did fit the bill. Other specialty suppliers can build you an aluminum
radiator if you desire, and if you have a particularly well-equipped wallet.
A number of Listers use cooling system filters (made by Gano and Mr. Gasket) to
keep their new rad from getting plugged with cooling system crud. The metal
bodied ones are preferred to the plastic types.
You can change out the water pump or just the impeller to increase the coolant
flow. This modification involves use of a hydraulic press and/or lathe.
The engine fan can be replaced with a six-blade fan to improve the low-speed
airflow through the rad. Fans only help up to about 30 MPH (that depends a
little on grille opening and engine bay ventilation). The following excerpt from
the list archives (Aug 98) details one possible mod:
---------------------------------------
JimI found this number in and old letter((CF-09DE-A)) from Allen Connell hope
this helps Armand 

The list (Steve, Tom Hall, Tom Ballou, Dick Barker and many others,) seemed to
feel that the Ford six-blade fan was the way to go. BOY where they right!! After
an exhaustive search, I finally found one of
the blades in question (CF-09DE-A) on a business trip to the bay area (Mustang
Ranch, Sunnyvale, CA. yup.....my wife questioned that receipt!) for a hefty
$100; but he did bead-blast the thing clean.
Trimming the blade to fit was a REAL bear. I will not go into details, but I
trimmed roughly 3/8" off each blade with a jig I made on my table saw. Scared me
half to death. (glad the reinforced blade held up!)
I would suggest to others who wish to add this blade that they do as Steve did:
take it to a machine shop. I was however very careful and believe I trimmed
accruately and kept the blade in balance. 

ritchie@mcn.org Armand & Lorie Ritchie 
--------------------------------------
It was noted on the list that certain Volvo fans also work. Note that all engine
driven fans depend largely on the shroud to ensure airflow through the rad at
low vehicle speeds. If you don't have a shroud, get one.

3. Other notes.
-On auxiliary electric fans, make sure you get a model that doesn't block too
much of the grille opening.
- Close up the horn holes.

One thing that can definitely be improved is engine bay ventilation. A LAT-79
hood or replica will help get the hot air out. It was noted not too long ago
that the forward-facing 'airscoop' also acts as an engine bay exhaust, probably
due to the curvature of the upper surface of the hood. If you feel adventurous
and/or are good at bodywork, you could make replicas of the fender ventilation
cutouts used by Doane Spencer on the #55 car, or as used on the factory rally
cars.

That's all I can think of for now. I'll keep this around for the Tiger FAQ list
if/when we create one. If anyone has comments or if I've made glaring errors or
omissions, let me know and I'll update it.

Theo Smit
tsmit@novatel.ca
B382002705






> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gordon Hall [SMTP:hallg@iafrica.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 12:07 AM
> To:   Tiger Group
> Subject:      Re: FAQ contents
> 
> As one of the "green horns" I for one would appreciate any info related to
> cooling problems. Although my stock 260 runs well, it doesn't take long for
> the pot to boil. PO said the radiator is missing its shroud and also there
> is no electric fan. I had planned on taking the car to a radiator shop but
> would prefer to get some input from those of you who have conquered "the
> curse" before throwing myself at his mercy.
> 
> As a number of listers have intimated, subjects like this have probably been
> thrashed to death already, but for us newcomers advice on the common
> problems would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> I have only been on the list for about a month but have already managed to
> pick up many useful tips. I would like to thanks the "regulars" for sharing
> their experiences with the rest of us.
> 
> Lastly, I would like to take this opportunity to thank Norman for assisting
> me by confirming my numbers match before I took the plunge and for providing
> me with some base data on my car B9473277.
> 
> Thanks to all in advance.
> 
> Gordon in SA
> B9473277
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BlueGolfer@aol.com <BlueGolfer@aol.com>
> To: TSmit@novatel.ca <TSmit@novatel.ca>; tigers@autox.team.net
> <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Date: 09 February 1999 12:01
> Subject: Re: FAQ contents
> 
> 
> >In a message dated 2/8/99 2:19:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> TSmit@novatel.ca
> >writes:
> >
> >> 1. A list of links.
> >>  2. Cooling - include popular radiator cores, rad shop references, rad
> and
> >> heater
> >>  hose crossreferences, etc, as well as a brief discussion of fans, air
> dams,
> >>  ventilation, etc.
> >>  3. Basic fraud detection. Note that an Alger is not a 'fraud' unless it
> >> carries
> >>  a Tiger JAL and VIN plate.
> >>  4. Engine/trans removal and installation methods.
> >>  5. Front crossmember R&R methods.
> >>  6. Front crossmember reinforcement methods (include where to reinforce
> as
> >> well
> >>  as a list of places to get it done)
> >>  7. Electrical tips and hints - common grounding problems/fixes,
> alternator
> >>  retro-fitting, etc.
> >>  More?
> >How about
> >
> >8.  What wheels and tires to use.
> >9.  Oil filter options and installations pros and cons
> >10. Carburator/intake selection
> >11. Rear axle refurb/gearing options and hub removal
> >
> >I could probably write up Number 9.
> >
> >Rob Kempinski
> >Melbourne Fl
> >

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>