Hi Gary
In a message dated 2/19/99 1:20:16 AM, gary@schotland.com writes:
>Hi Guys,
>
>It's been 7+ years since I've yanked out a Tiger engine, so I'm in
>need of some advice. Do I drop the crossmember and take the
>engine/trans out from below or do I attempt to pull them out
>together from above, leaving the crossmember in place?
>
>The last time around I dropped the crossmember and pulled it from
>below without too much trouble. The most painful part was bolting
>that heavy crossmember back in place so I could move the car
>around. In fact, as I remember, it was an absolute bitch to line up
>the bolt holes. (I think ten year olds from across the street learned
>a few new bad words that day - shame on me!)
>
>My inclination is to drop the crossmember, but I don't want a replay
>of the trouble I had putting it back in place. If this is the way to go,
>
>what's the least painful technique for putting the crossmember
>back in place?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gary Schotland
>
>
>
Well Gary,here are some old posts from August that highlight my experience
with your problem.
Good Luck!
Tony
Hi Scott You wrote <<thank you for the tank insight. next on my list is
reinstalling a new 302. first yet me say that my car had frame damage in
the front that was fixed half-ast. is it better to reinstall the motor
with the heads off?(i am putting on a set of cat headers). i remember
some posting about how you have to set the headers in first before the
motor goes in. scott B9472628>>> No No NO NO NO. The easiest way to
install headers on a(without engine in the car) Tiger is to put the car
up in the air all the way around(but higher up in front-2 ft if you
can)and remove the front end crossmember(4 bolts and a brake line).Put
the engine on a rolling stand of some sort that also supports the
transmission.Slide unit underneath car and remove the stand and install
the headers and engine mount assembies(loosely). I just reformatted my
harddrive.I will send you the long piece I sent to the list about my
ordeal when I did the same thing,with dos and donts in the next day or
so scott,when i find it. Tony Tony
------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Hi Tigers I have finally finished the weekend goal of installing the
engine and trans back ino my Tiger.Took less than 3 hours to install
engine and trans thru the bottom.With headers.And re-install the front
end assembly.I listened to some of the advice I had recieved from list
posters.Some things I picked up from the Tiger website(s),and some of it
I adapted from there.I am going to share what worked and why. I
purchased a kinda generic engine dolly at a ford swap meet.Musta been
for a Big-block,the bolt holes on the stand front did not line up with
anything.The only bolt I could attach it with was the top starter
bolt,so I ran a long bolt out of the backside to attach to the stand.I
let gravity do the rest.the front stand part fit in between the forward
and middle freeze plugs.The engine W/O carb,crank pulley and waterpump
were attached to the clutch and trans and supported by the dolly. The
car was on Jackstands all the way around.I raised the car further by
removing the topmost bolt for the support strut that attaches on the
wheel well top and using a longer bolt so I could attach the (rented
)engine hoist chain directly to the car.It worked perfectly! So did the
dolly.With the engine more or less in place let the car back down on the
jackstands.Attached Chain to the engine(at a diagonal across the intake
manifold,I used a I/2" longer bolt in front and back ) to remove the
dolly. Jacked tranny tailshaft up and installed crossmember piece(but no
rubber mount) Installed Headers loosely,then added mounting brackets and
engine mount rubber biscuits. It took maybe a half an hour to line up
the mounting brackets w/the frame holes and clear the headers of contact
points. No hammer was needed,only the correct soliloqy of choice
profanities.The some what lower trans tailshaft resting directly on the
crossmember gave me the additional clearance(under the firewall) to
remove the longer-than stock manifold bolt I had attached the lift chain
to. To re-install the front end I used a variation of the Mark Olsen
rope technique(outlined on his website).With the engine in place and the
chain removed,My friend Jeff and I turned our attention to the front
end.I ducttaped the aluminum front end spacers to the Front end
assy.After an abortive attempt at balancing the front end(With tires) on
a jack with us balancing it ,I broke out some rope.Sisal rope.Not real
heavy stuff, shy of a 1/2" thick(maybe less ),I ducttaped a nylon wire
tie to the one end of it after snipping off the sqaure end.I then used
the nylon as a guide to pull the bigger rope thru.Started up under the
crossmember at the aft hole ,thru the crossmember,thru the corresponding
frame hole(from the bottom),up over the engine and down the aft holes on
the other side of the frame and corresponding holes of the
crossmember.Then with the rope run thru I got my two largest 1/2" drive
sockets that I wasnt using(making sure that they were larger than the
pass-thru holes for the bolts that secure the front end to the frame)
and ran the rope thru that and tied it off in several knots and wrapped
several layers of ducttape aound that,so that the rope wouldnt come
loose.I then brought the hoist over and measured out how much slack I
would need to attach the hoist to the rope before"attaching" the other
socket to the rope end.Using the hoist(with an assist from the floorjack
to take some of the strain off of the rope.The rope was a "found"
item-It was in the basement when we moved here and I dont know what
strength it was rated at) the front end assembly went up with a little
coaxing.I wish I would have known about rotating it forward a little do
the back of the upper control arm would clear the clear the outward curl
of the frame at the topmost point of the inner wheelwell/frame area.I
lost 10-15 minutes in "Uh-duh mode" trying to figure out why what came
out wont go back in.If anything it should be easier with the 20-30 lbs
of grease and road crap cleaned off at the car wash with high pressure
soap. After lowering and rocking the front end foward,everything lined
up perfectly. Towards the end of the adventure in the garage the heat
caught up with me.I had been wearing black coveralls during the heavy
work and drinking plenty of pepsi and later some beer.No water.90
degrees air temp and probably hotter where I was at.Then the cramps came
from dehydration.First the legs ,then the back.My friend Jeff continues
to finish the job because I cant.Now a small problem. Jeff found out why
I had ducttaped the long bolt for the crossmember to the socket,and the
socket to the extension(I found out previously when I took the thing
apart-the bolt I lost in there fell out when we moved the front end to
install it) not once but twice!Is there an easy (ier) way to get bolts
out of the crossmember?Are new (or old used) replacement bolts available
from someone? Well,that is the story of my friday. Further reports as
progress is made. I have come to the realization that I will probably
have this finished just in time to put it up for the winter. I read in
my mail today from the list about a recomendation for Macs Antique Auto
parts-of NewYork.I have a Macs catalogue and that is all well and
good.My own "special" old ford parts place is called K.A.R. (Mustang)
.They are a chain of about 20-25 shops scattered throughout the
nation.There is one here in Columbus that I have gone to to get oddball
stuff they have in stock-like late 260 early 289 dipstick tubes.they
also carry a full range of proper bolts and speedo gears and other parts
small and large that would be a real pain to find in a salvage yard.
Goodnight and happy Tiggering Tony PS.Do the front end shims(the
aluminum spacers)between the crossmember and the frame get installed
large side facing front?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Hi Jeff On 8/9/98 you wrote > Is there an easy (ier) way to get bolts
out of the crossmember?
Find a large magnet (an old speaker magnet?) and see if you can't track
the bolt back up to the hole. > PS.Do the front end shims(the aluminum
spacers)between the crossmember and
the > frame get installed large side facing front?
As Gary mentioned, the large end goes to the rear. If your local, I have
a rivet gun and the spare rivets. (San Jose) Let me know. JCarter >>>
Well thanks for the offer of a rivet gun.I am in Columbus Ohio. Well I
had a 50-50 chance of getting it right.I did not remove the old shims
.They were removed when the car got sandblasted.They were very coroded
and unusable.Got some new ones from Tiger Auto in Dayton.They didnt have
the small holes drilled in for the poprivets so I didnt think they were
important.Actually it works out in my favor that I didnt pop rivet the
shim to the crossmember.This way I can let down the bolt on one side and
support the crossmember with the floor jack and then carefully remove
the bolt from the other side and turn the shim around and then repeat
the process.If I had used the rivets instead of the ducttape I would
have to undo and then re-do everthing.Besides the rivets dont perform
any vital function other than pinning the shim in place so the
crossmember can be installed-right? I like the idea of using a big
magnet to walk the bolt to the hole. Thanks for the ideas . Aint this
internet "carclub " stuff great!? Gee a whole new realm to discuss new
uses for ducttape in!(snicker) Tony
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